Introducing The Cabinets

Here at Totally Rad Guitars, we talk about Guitars (obviously) and more and more lately amplifiers. However there is an absolutely crucial, key component to any sound - the cabinets and speakers. In fact, as someone sitting in a room with 50+ amps, I’d argue a high quality cab and speakers are at least as important as the amp itself and maybe more so to some degree.

Now despite the huge collection here, I’m very frugal - I always buy used, sometimes damaged goods, and I’m not afraid of a repair. So I’m not saying “Go out and replace the speakers in your cab with some fancy brand new Celestions.” Just wanted to get that out of the way first thing. If you do a little research, there are some incredible cabs out there for amazing prices.

One other thing that is important to mention before we get started: I’m not as familiar with other makers, but Celestion Speakers have a LOT of variations even within the same model. For example, you might look at a speaker like the G12-65 and think there’s just the 4, 8, and 16 ohm variants. Well there’s more - construction differences, dust cap differences, material and glue differences, 55hz or 75hz cones, and more changed over the production run. I’m not an expert in this area but if you are very particular, be sure to find the T#### code and year of the speakers you like to help you find them again. It’s also why it is so difficult to discuss speakers online, because one person who played a 2017 T75 probably thinks it’s a scooped piece of crap while a 1987 T75 sounds like it’s from a different planet in comparison, but has the same model name.

Ok, this is going to be a long article so settle in. Let’s introduce the cabinets I’ve been using, starting with this 1986 Marshall JCM800 1960A 4x12:

Those of you who have watched my videos are probably familiar with this cabinet, and this is the first 4x12 I ever bought for myself so I’ve had it for a pretty long time. This was another Jimmy’s Vintage Music purchase, and it sports its original 1986 year Celestion G12T-75’s. Made in the UK, as all Celestions were at that time, these were originally based on the G12-65 which were used in JCM800 Lead cabinets from ~1981-1985. Very early T75’s have a small vent on the magnet, but the ones in my cabinet are slightly newer than that and lack the vent. Mine have the standard configuration of a 1777 cone, which is a 75Hz cone, and a 35oz “medium” magnet. Unlike a modern T75, these are relatively dark speakers, very thick in the mids and a bit rolled off on the high end. Some of that may be due to breaking in, but it’s true that the construction is a bit different than a modern one so it’s some of both.

As for the cab itself, it’s a birch plywood cabinet with a center support post. Interestingly, the back panel is MDF particle board, and the speakers are rear-loaded and configured to 16ohm Mono with a deep plastic “cup” jack just below the small metal serial number plate. Side handles are plastic and mounted with rivets. It came with casters but I always set my cabs on the floor as I feel that enhances their bass and resonance in the room. This cab is really the gold standard to compare other cabs to, both within my own collection and in the guitar world as a whole really - what is more iconic than a Marshall stack? It measures square at 29.5 inches width and height. It’s 14 inches deep at the base and 11 inches deep at the top.

I have temporarily rewired it so that each pair of speakers in an X pattern has its own jack, which lets me use two heads at once through the cab in 8ohm (easy for AB testing), and I can still use all four speakers with two speaker cables. This is the same as many other cabs, such as slightly later 1960A’s which have the stereo/mono panel on the back which started with JCM900 cabinets.


Next is a very similar cab, a 1992 Marshall 6960LE which is part of a matching set with the polished brass plated 6100LE head.

Marshall released these cabinets to pair alongside the 30th Anniversary edition amplifiers, the 6100. Models with the blue tolex and gold logo were only available in 1992 and in extremely limited number - 800 heads and 500 1x12 combo amps. I can’t find the precise production numbers for cabinets, but I think it’s safe to assume there are roughly 800 of these 6960ALE cabs as well, to match the heads, and a smaller number of non-slant 6960 “B” cabinets as a full stack was available too.

There are also non-limited edition models, signified with a more standard white plastic Marshall logo, and in the case of the head, lacks the polished brass plating. The cabinets in this series are simply called “6960A” and “6960B” without the “LE.” These kept the gold piping and blue tolex of the limited edition models.

Both the limited, standard, and even the JCM900 Lead 1960A/B cabinets all used the same quad of Celestion G12T-75 speakers, and are all built with the same construction materials and dimensions (the same as the above 80s cabinet). That’s a birch ply body with center post, rear loaded, but with an MDF back panel. The most notable departure from the 80s era Marshall cabinets is the speaker jack panel, which instead of a single jack in a plastic “cup,” is a larger black plastic panel with two jacks and a switch in between. This allows these cabinets to be used in “stereo” configuration - which is quite simply, plug into the left and you get the left two speakers, plug into the right and you get the right two speakers. The nice thing about the wiring of these cabinets is that you can use all four speakers in either 4 ohm or 16 ohm configurations, or a pair of speakers in 8 ohm - very nice when you have a lot of amps like me where not every amp has all of the options for impedance.

From a purely practical standpoint, it’s the same as any other Marshall standard cab. These early “black label” T75’s sound much like their earlier white label predecessors so the two cabs are roughly equivalent, which means I use the 80s one the majority of the time since it’s not a fancy limited edition.


This is a 1996 Fender Tone-Master 4x12, which was given to me by my father.

I am sadly missing the matching 90s Tone-Master head at the time of writing, but for now my blonde Super-Sonic 100 will have to do for the photo-op. This cabinet has a quad of 1996 year Celestion Vintage 30’s, which is an “H” magnet speaker (50oz) with a notable high-mid spike. Combined with the relatively smaller size of this cabinet (it measures 27 x 27.5 x 13 inches) it is a bit more cutting with less oomph in the low end than my other cabinets.

I actually inherited this from my dad, who bought it brand new at Portman’s Music in Savannah Georgia. Instead of the Tone-Master head, he picked out a matching blonde/oxblood Deluxe Reverb Reissue and used that for many years, with a Radioshack 33-3005 microphone and a Yamaha QY700 sequencer plugged in to the other inputs of that amp. Definitely not the traditional wisdom when it comes to these things, but I have a lot of fond memories of him playing and singing in the house with that setup.

When I went off to college, I had a Vox AD30VT but when I eventually moved out of the dorms, I wanted something a bit more serious and ended up with a Marshall TSL. My dad temporarily gifted me this cabinet (much to my downstairs neighbor’s disappointment), although I only had it for a short while before I downsized to the Egnater 1x12 (which I still have, more details below).

Jumping ahead many years, I eventually took this cabinet into my collection again, but this time in a house where I could actually play through it. My dad still has the Deluxe Reverb.


On to the 1998 Hughes and Kettner Triamp Cabinet.

This is my most recent cabinet acquisition, and one I’ve been hunting for a while now. It really started with this idea that I was going to flesh out my youtube channel with more comparison videos - between amps, speakers, pickups, pedals, and so on. I realized that I have a lot of T75’s and V30’s, which is great, but especially with my preference for 80s metal tones I really felt like I was missing out by not having some kind of greenback, blackback, or other late 70s/early 80s type speaker. During this time, I picked up a few orphaned singles and pairs of speakers, but after doing some research and discovering that these cabinets came with UK Greenbacks stock, I figured this was my best chance at a bang-for-the-buck cabinet that fit my requirements - even if that meant trashing the wooden box itself. Keep in mind, a quad of 90s UK Greenbacks regularly cost upwards of $600, yet this entire cab only cost me $400… can’t beat that, even if maybe I would’ve picked something else if money were no concern.

The speakers are as expected - excellent, superb even. Maybe the most particular people might prefer real 60s/70s era G12M’s, or maybe modern Scumbacks, but for the cost I really don’t think this can be beaten. The cabinet itself is very conflicting to me - it is entirely constructed of MDF, and as such weighs an absolute ton. It is front loaded, which doesn’t bother me really but it is a bit strange for a cab loaded with such a “traditional” speaker. It has extremely high quality metal handles, recessed from the sides, and glued with soft foam seal around them which is a really nice detail and adds a lot of confidence to moving it around despite the weight. The rear panel has two jacks, which allow each pair of speakers to be used separately at 4 ohms, or all 4 speakers used together at 8 ohms if only the leftmost jack is used. It measures barely smaller than a standard Marshall cab, at 29 x 29 inches tall and wide, 14 inches deep at the base but only 10.5 inches deep at the top.


Next up, a 2003 Mesa Rectifier Traditional cabinet.

This was the second cabinet I purchased for myself to pair with my Marshall JCM800 1960A and give me some more options. This Mesa “traditional” sized rectifier cabinet is extremely high quality, built from birch ply all around with metal handles. It’s about 3 inches shorter in height than the “standard” rectifier cabinet, which most people call “oversized” for comparison’s sake to other manufacturers. The traditional cab however, is essentially the same size as your gold standard Marshall cabinet. It measures 29.5 x 29.5 inches tall and wide, with the base at 14 inches deep and the top around 11 inches deep. I’ll admit, I would’ve preferred to have the oversized cab just for flavor’s sake, but that doesn’t make this any less of a great cab - if I could only have one, this would be it construction-wise. Since I have… 3 other similarly sized cabs though, it’d be nice to have something a little different.

It comes equipped with a quad of 8 ohm Celestion Vintage 30’s, UK made and dating to the year 2003. I’m certainly not as familiar as some when it comes to all of the details of Vintage 30’s, but from what I understand 2003 is considered to be one of the “good years.” Regardless of online opinion, I can say that this is a fantastic sounding cab and the speakers are a huge part of that. At some point, I’ll have to put a pair of the ‘96 V30’s from my Fender into this and compare to see whether I like those or the ‘03 variants more.

Otherwise, there isn’t much more to say - it’s a workhorse, and my second most used cab just behind my JCM800 1960A.


Lastly, I have a 2012 Egnater Tweaker 1x12.

I picked this up used back in 2012 to downsize my apartment rig. This is a partial open-back cab with a removable rear grille, and is completely birch-ply construction. It’s not a true “convertible” cab as some modern ones are, but it’s also very easy to convert to open back or closed back - a few screws and the two small rear panels pop right off for open back, and I used a piece of wood cut to the shape of the grille area with mounting tape that I can simply slot into the rear for a closed back feel (ok, maybe there’s a tiny gap in between the wood panels). Either way, this is a very nice cabinet especially for the price I paid at the time which was basically just the cost of the speaker - a Chinese made Celestion G12H-30 Anniversary. More recent Tweaker 1x12 cabs no longer come with this speaker and instead are equipped with a G12H-50 which is an OEM model produced for Egnater (and likely other manufacturers too). It measures 20 x 14.5 x 10.5 inches.

This is my favorite “test bed” cabinet because it is so easy to quickly swap out speakers, it sounds good with just about anything in it, and since I’ve accumulated quite a few singles it gives me something to use them in. Currently, I have this loaded with a 1982 Celestion G12-80 with the 55Hz 444 cone, and that is by far my favorite single speaker I’ve tried so far. Perhaps the 55Hz cones might have too much low end in a 4x12 setting, but it really rips here and I’d love to get my hands on another if the right deal comes up.

Otherwise, here are the loose speakers I currently have. I also had a (not pictured) Marshall 1931 1x12 cab which I sold rather quickly, and a really unique 1970s Kasino cab (made by Kustom) which I bought super cheap and pulled out the speakers - someone had loaded it with a pair of T75’s and a pair of M70’s which you can see pictured below.

Alright, if you made it, thanks for sticking around! Next time it won’t be so long, since I’ll be updating as I get new speakers and cabs now. Now to get to work on those comparisons…

New Amp: Diezel VH2

I’ve been watching this amp sit at a local shop for a while - one I’ve talked about before, and funnily enough, the same place I got my Diezel Einstein last year: Jimmy’s Vintage Music. If you are ever in the Tampa or Central Florida areas, I’d HIGHLY encourage you to go check out this shop. It’s run by one guy - Jimmy of course - and he maintains one of the best high end vintage guitar stores I’ve ever seen. I feel lucky to live close enough that I can make it out there occasionally, and now that he updates the site pretty often with new gear, it’s really convenient (I remember when he used to list occasional things on craigslist but you never really knew what he had in stock back then!).

Anyway, he’s had this VH2 for a little while. It’s an amp on my list, but I always figured I’d eventually get my hands on a VH4 someday so it was never a huge priority, especially for the prices I was seeing them for elsewhere online. After seeing the price drop on this one locally though, I had to jump on it, so I drove down there last week with a pair of Ibanezes as potential trades. I ended up keeping the guitars… no problem there, and I suspect Jimmy’s clientele are more into the classic Fender/Gibson type stuff. I have to mention that Jimmy is a really great guy to deal with - he was honest about what he could and couldn’t take in trade based on his regulars, and still gave me a really fair price on the amp to buy it outright. Let me put it this way, I’ve been there many times, and I’ve always left very happy.

No surprise, the amp is in pristine shape - original footswitch included. These have only been out for a few years, and this one is quite recent by my standards as a 2021 model. This is a two channel amp designed for a little more mass appeal, sort of your entry point into the Diezel sound for the low low price of $3000 brand new. A quick overview of the model lineup at the time of writing: The VH2 is the least expensive model in the lineup of “full size” heads, alongside the Hagen, Herbert, and VH4, all of which are $4000+. There is also a line of smaller form factor heads - but unlike other manufacturers, the smaller heads are still beasts, with the VHX and D-Moll sporting 100w power sections. The other “small” heads are the 45w Paul and BigMax (with the BigMax being the least expensive in that form factor at $2500 with only a single channel).

In short, if you want to get into the Diezel sound, the VH2 is the go-to amp for a lot of people just based on price and features alone. The VH2’s Channel 1 is based on the Paul’s clean channel, which is well regarded for a high gain amp. The real highlight though, and I suspect the main reason most are interested in this amp, the VH2’s Channel 2 is supposedly the same as the VH4’s famous Channel 3.

I’m not as familiar with the buzz around this myself - I’ve listened to some Tool, like a few tracks, but it’s not the tone I dream about late at night (that’s not to say it isn’t good of course). I also know Smashing Pumpkins and Billy Corgan are big users of the VH4 in general, channel 3 included. I wouldn’t dare call it “overhyped,” but there is definitely a subset of guitarists who are a bit fanatical in their appreciation of the VH4 Channel 3’s sound and whoever uses it.

Okay, hype aside how does it sound? Well, I haven’t played a VH4 yet so I really can’t compare to that yet. I will say it’s a chunky sounding amp, but much brighter than the Herbert Mk1 when I A/B tested them. It also has far less gain than I expected, and a little less low-mid gut punch. I think I had in my mind it was going to be a heavy metal amp, and it can be, but it’s certainly less saturated than the Herbert for example, and it doesn’t get as gainy as my Einstein either. Of course, boosting with a tubescreamer sounds great, a la single channel JCM800, but this is no Marshall clone by any stretch. It’s hard to say really, because I need to spend a little more time with it to really feel out what it can do. It didn’t blow my socks off immediately like I felt the first time I played a Herbert, but I think a lot of that is just my approach to a new amp, where I crank the gain and rip out some heavy riffs. That’s not to say it isn’t an excellent amp for heavier tones, I think I just need to coax it a little bit more and admittedly I’ve been busy, so I’m only a few hours into spending time with it as I write this. It does get a little undefined with the gain too high, so that’s kind of limiting - in order to keep some clarity, I have the gain at about 1-2 O’clock, but that’s not enough saturation for my liking.

As for the clean channel, it’s an acceptable clean channel but it definitely doesn’t wow me. It’s very flat, and probably great for effects or with an EQ to shape your sound to what you want, but on its own it’s a bit plain. It does sound really good with the gain cranked up as a pseudo-crunch channel though, with very natural feel to the overdrive.

Construction, fit and finish, and quality are all absolutely top tier and it shows. The preamp tubes are PCB mounted but that never bothered me, but I know some feel differently especially in this price range. It has absolutely massive transformers, and my understanding is that these are the same ones as the full size VH4. Of course, it still has me thinking about the VH4 and wondering what I can get out of that amp’s Ch2 and Ch4… I guess that’s the point.

More pictures here

New Amp: 2005 Brunetti XL R-EVO II

I have been on the lookout for a nice Brunetti amp to try for quite some time, but here in the US they are quite hard to come by - and expensive when they do show up. I wasn’t too particular on the model, I wanted to get to “know the brand” and what makes in unique and sometimes that means casting a wide net, similar to the way I handled ENGL (which started as one amp and now I’ve had 9 of them!).

Brunetti has been making amps officially since 1993, starting with the Mille! preamp. This led to a full-size head version which is probably the best-known Brunetti amp on my side of the pond, the XL “Extra Lead.” The XL was a 3-channel high gain amp available in 2-power tube and 4-power tube configurations for 60w or 120w respectively. This design had a separate EQ for the clean channel, but the “boost” and “xl” channels shared an EQ, though they retained separate gain and volume controls, along with a few voicing switches.

Next in this lineage is the amp I have recently acquired, the XL R-EVO II.

This amp differs from the original XL, with separate EQ’s for all 3 channels, although lacking the front panel switches. Like its predecessor, it also has a unique physical feature; the 1U rack mount slot. I always thought this was a really cool idea, and the head box itself is not much taller than your standard Marshall style shell. It isn’t particularly deep, but my beloved Yamaha SPX90 fits perfectly.

So how does it sound? Pretty good! Cleans are quite scooped, bright and sparkly, but most importantly highly customizable with a lot of range in the EQ. I also love a clean channel with a gain control, so you can get a little bit of hair on it if you prefer a pushed clean tone. It’s very elastic feeling to play, and I have to say this is one of the best clean channels I’ve heard on a high gainer - it almost feels like there is a compressor on all the time and makes spanky rhythms and clean fills a lot of fun to play. The XLead channel really rips - super high gain, and super saturated tone. I don’t have a schematic but it really feels like it’s in between that SLO-5150/6505 territory, and it stays surprisingly together even with the gain near max. The Depth control of the power amp enhances this a lot, and interestingly the depth control all the way maxed (in the “extra” area) doesn’t flub out or overwhelm you, and adds a lot of low-mid punch. That’s not to say the bass is rolled off though, it’s full sounding and depending on your pick attack and/or speakers, it can get a bit squishy. I like this feel when playing, and it makes lead lines stand out really well, but it’s not going to do that ultra-tight Mesa Mark type sound (and I wouldn’t expect it to anyway). My sources tell me that the Mille! and original XL circuit is heavily SLO inspired, so that makes sense, and comparing this amp side by side with my Soldano Avenger I can hear some similarities, but the Brunetti is a bit more polished and polite at neutral EQ settings. I’d love to know the exact differences between the XL and this XL REVO under the hood.

Now the one issue - I bought this amp As-Is, with a non-working Boost channel. I was able to work out a very good deal and it was worth the risk… this won’t be the first amp to come through my hands that I needed to repair. Luckily, it seems like it’ll be an easy fix, as the entire amp sounds fantastic except the boost channel which has a loud buzzing sound (probably open ground from a cracked solder joint). I’ll take a look with my tech team and fix it right up.

Don’t worry, I didn’t let them actually touch the inside of the amp. Safety first!

Great amp to have in the collection, and now I really want to get an original XL, or one of the other cool older Brunetti amps like the 059 or Mille!.

It’s also worth mentioning that Brunetti is still in business and currently producing amps, cabinets, and effects pedals. In fact, there is a current production Mille being offered this year, as well as a flagship boutique head called the “Mercury.” Definitely worth checking out.

More pictures available here

New Amp: 2004 Soldano Hot Rod 50X Plus signed by Mike Soldano

I’ll admit, I splurged on this one and probably paid a little too much. I had my heart set on an Avenger, and I finally was able to check that one off my list just a few months ago. I thought my Soldano GAS was through, but when I spotted this red tolex, white chassis Hot Rod I decided it was worth a shot.

It has two less power tubes than my 100w Avenger, but gains an extra preamp tube for the effects loop. This amp design is closely related to the budget Jet City models such as the JCA50 or the JCA22 which I am intimately familiar with - I did my first ever amp circuit mods on a JCA22.

The first Hot Rod amps were basically more budget minded SLO’s, lacking the crunch mode and the large DeYoung transformers that made those amps famous, starting production in 1991 with the single channel 50w model. 100w models came later in 1994, and the plus version, like mine, started in 1995. These were made until 2005 before being replaced with an updated version for 2006, which removed the slave out from the rear and added a depth control to the front panel, sort of combining together the Avenger line and the Hot Rod line into one (aptly named the “Hot Rod Avenger”). There is also a Hot Rod 25, introduced in 2012.

The naming can be a bit confusing, but the original Hot Rod amps had two inputs and a very stripped down 6-knob, single channel design. The plus models added the second channel but sacrificed the low input. The Avengers first came out in 2003, and were similar to the single-channel Hot Rods, with the same two inputs and one channel, adding the depth control, and removing the effects loop along with a few tweaks to the voicing for more aggressive tones. This was during the era of ever-more-complicated multichannel amps, and a sizable number of guitar players really wanted that stripped down amp design, thinking even having the effects loop present negatively affected the tone - I’m not sure I believe that myself, but I’m sure that had a part in influencing the Avenger design.

Anyway, back to the Hot Rod. This is a great sounding amp, with the classic Soldano lead tone - bright, punchy, and extremely clear. It sports all Mercury Magnetics transformers. The “normal” channel also sounds quite good, although it shares the EQ with the overdrive channel so it does have some limitations there. Still, it feels quite natural when switching channels, keeping the same core tone with less gain and a hair brighter with the preamp knob set at half or below. The overdrive channel gets quite gainy but can be a little loose on the bottom end without a boost, but its open character means it’ll take that boost very well. I’ve played it a few times boosted with a Klon Clone and it takes the natural tone of the amp and kicks it into high gear, or alternatively using a Boss SD-1 or Tubescreamer and the bottom end tighten up while the mids get more prominent - great for solos or metal rhythms, especially with lower tunings. Truly a staple of high gain tones, and for good reason - and quite different tonally from its estranged family (Rectos and 5150/6505’s).

This particular amp was signed by Mike Soldano at some point, but it isn’t dated. I speculate that it must’ve been pretty recent, perhaps the amp had a health check in Seattle and that’s when it was signed. The amp is in absolutely minty shape so either way, it was very well taken care of.

More photos available here

New Amp: Hughes & Kettner Triamp Mk 1

This is another amp I occasionally look for because I suspect it would be an amazing bang for the buck snag, especially with the current Mk 3 Triamp retailing for a whopping $4400. In contrast, Mk 2’s are hovering in the $1300 range and this old Mk 1 only ran me about $650. In particular I was waiting to find one that had either the original footswitch or the MSM-1 Midi controller installed - well I really lucked out because this particular one came with both!

It’s in pretty good condition all around, and it is a very heavy amp with a lot of tubes. These were available with either a quad EL34 or quad 6L6 power section - mine has EL34’s. The preamp contains 8x 12AX7 tubes, plus another 12AX7 phase inverter - so 13 tubes total. The only amp with more that I own are Mesa Triple Rectifiers, with 14 total tubes, though there’s a lot more in the power section there. Interestingly, the Fender Super-Sonic 100 also has 13 total tubes.

The previous owner did replace the back panel with a nicely cut piece of wood, which has the reverb tank attached to the back - this is normal for Mk1 Triamps, though the original back plate would’ve been a metal grate. I’ve never seen another amp mount the reverb tank this way, and the RCA cables go directly into the rear panel of the amp, where a master reverb control sits. I found the reverb to sound very good, although this is an aftermarket tank so I can’t comment on the factory configuration - but usually a bad reverb has to do with the circuit more than the type of tank itself in my experience. The drawback is that with a single mix control, it’s difficult to dial in reverb to your liking for cleans or light crunch tones without ending up with too much on your higher gain tones.

This is effectively a six channel amp as well, so it does make a few sacrifices in getting you there. These channels are separated into 3 “Amps,” where they have separate gain controls but shared EQ and master volume controls. I was pleasantly surprised at how closely matched the volume levels were between channels, but there are some issues especially on “Amp 1,” which is the cleaner side of things.

Amp 1’s two channels, A and B, are voiced noticeably apart. “A” is much brighter and spankier, but gets a very nice dirty tone with the gain turned up too. The drawback is that “B” is a bit darker and fuller sounding, so that shared master volume can be a problem here if you prefer two gain extremes - for example, using B as a crunch tone with the gain up and A for a very clean sound is not really workable in a live situation. With the controls near noon, they are closely volume matched though.

Amp 2’s channels follow the same basic voicing - “A” is brighter while “B” is darker and fuller. Both have similar amounts of overdrive available, and it seemed like anything but the most extreme settings kept the volume very close between them. This is definitely a British crunch inspired channel and the extra voicing/gain control is great for going from a rhythm or lead sound in that classic rock crunch realm.

Amp 3 changes things up a bit, with “A” being a bit of a “super crunch” channel (I’m hesitant to call it high gain, in the modern sense), while “B” is a much more saturated sounding high gain sound. It’s not really brighter or darker than A - maybe a little more hair on top - but a lot more gain available than A has even with A’s gain maxed out (which is still very tight feeling, impressive). Amp 3B definitely scratches my itch for instant gratification, it sounds and feels great to play, is voiced in a way that sounds great through both my V30’s and G12T75’s even with the EQ controls at noon, and gets saturated enough for classic metal tones and other heavier styles. It does not get nearly as saturated as many modern high gainers - this is no Diezel Herbert or Peavey 5150 kind of sound, it is much more polite than that. It also keeps it together a bit more, with less lows and extreme highs compared to something like a Rectifier or V-EQ’d Mark. I’d put it squarely in the more classic high gain territory and I’d prefer to use a boost on either A or B mode if I needed a more modern heavy sound. That doesn’t make it any less great sounding for what it does.

Here is the factory 7-button footswitch, which allows switching of any of the 3 “amps” and their A/B modes on the fly. The last button is for the effects loop, and this does not affect the Reverb - too bad. I figure they may as well have just done 8 switches so I could turn the Reverb off, and that single knob is a big limitation as I mentioned before. I haven’t used the MSM-1 yet, but I do wonder if the Reverb can be turned on/off via MIDI, which might solve the issue.

Interestingly, the Triamp Mk2 gives up its Reverb completely, so I figure others had the same complaints that I do about it. Personally I’d rather have the Reverb than not though, so while I haven’t played a Mk2, I’m very happy to have this Mk1. From what I’ve read, the Mk2’s main changes are related to the balance between Amp 1 A/B and Amp 2 A mode, so I wonder if that amp fixes my complaints about the volume differences when playing Amp 1 dirty. The Triamp Mk3 version solves that issue entirely by being a true 6-channel amp, where all channels/modes have separate gain, volume, and EQ controls, plus a noise gate. Apparently the Mk1 is more reliable as well, but that’s all hearsay - and judging by the very complicated looking internals of this amp, I’m sure it’d be a complicated amp to fix if something did go wrong.

Tangentially, these original Triamps came paired with a 4x12 cabinet that contained a quad of UK-made Celestion G12M25 Greenback speakers. I actually bought one of these cabinets earlier this month, but sadly the original speakers were all gone and replaced with some generic garbage so I had to return it. I’ve seen a handful of these Greenback equipped 4x12’s floating around in the $400-500 range, which these days is an absolute steal for that set of speakers, if they are still present. Eventually I’ll find one for myself, but I think it’s also worth noting that the original design of this amp was to be used with Greenbacks. I think that says a lot about why it excels so much in some of the more classic crunch and metal sounds. In contrast, the matching cabinet for the Mk2 switched to the more common V30 speaker, and the matching Mk3 cabinet is a H&K made speaker - no more celestions.

Overall, a really great sounding amp with great features.

More photos available here

New Amp: Rivera Knucklehead K-Tre

There are few groups of amps that are perpetually on my list to buy, with the end goal of eventually trying and comparing them all. One of those is the Rivera Knucklehead series, which started with a two channel amp which was more of a “Fender Clean + Slightly Gainier JCM800” kind of thing, back when that was a more novel idea. Next came the 3-channel Knucklehead Reverb, famously used on a handful of metal albums but most notably on Slipknot’s first few records, and sporadically since - this resulted in the KR7 Mick Thomson signature amp, which is the version that I own. Generally speaking I don’t like “signature” stuff, but I couldn’t refuse the price of the KR7 - but I’d have preferred a standard KR100.

While the 3-channel KR55 and KR100 amps were being produced, a new model called the “Knucklehead II” came out, which was a simpler design that was kind of a hybrd between the old and new Knuckleheads. The II had a fender-like clean channel, but instead of a crunch channel, the second channel of the II was an all out high gain monster. This amp seems to be pretty unpopular - someday I’ll find out for myself.

Then came this amp - the K-Tre. This is clearly based on the II, with the same headshell size and a nearly identical front panel. I didn’t realize quite how old these amps are - this one dates from 2006. The modern K-Tre Reverb is again another very similar amp, just adding a spring reverb single control for it, and that version is still available brand new today. In fact, according to the Rivera website at the time of writing, even this non-reverb K-Tre is still available, but I couldn’t actually find one for sale anywhere (whereas the K-Tre Reverb is readily available in stock at Sweetwater and other retailers).

Most chatter online is that the reverb and non-reverb K-Tre amps sound different from each other, with a few comments that the Reverb version is more aggressive and modern sounding. I have to wonder if this is a case where there were some circuit revisions along the way, so comparing a 2024 K-Tre vs a 2024 K-Tre Reverb would likely sound identical, but obviously comparing a 2006 K-Tre vs a 2024 K-Tre Reverb would sound quite a bit different because it has nearly 20 years of voicing, design, or part revisions since then.

I also think it is interesting that the Knucklehead II is considered one of the “bad ones.” It looks the same as the Tre, but the II has even more tonal shaping options - a master volume for the clean channel, and the gain channel has pull switches on all 3 EQ controls (Sweet, Scoop, and Bass Boost). The Tre’s (both my 2006 and current production) don’t have any pull controls on the gain channel. Not that more controls means better tone of course.

To make things even a bit more confusing, I’ve seen a Tre Reverb with a 1999 date code, but the earliest “II” I can find is from 2003. So I have to wonder if the “II” was designed to be an upgrade of sorts to the K-Tre models, but fell flat for whatever reason - voicing changes, or maybe the extra tweaking added by the pull controls just confused people. We guitar players are a fickle bunch, and plenty of amps have died unceremonious deaths due to “it’s complicated to dial in” perceptions even if the actual amp circuit and tone was identical to its predecessor (Peavey Butcher II comes to mind…).

So, convoluted history aside, this is a really awesome sounding amp. I find it unique sounding compared with the KR7, and definitely different than the Bonehead. The clean is no surprise - Rivera excellence - and the gain channel I’ve heard compared to a Mesa Rectifier which I can see, but the low end feels a lot different on the Rivera. It can get a little muddy if you aren’t careful with the Foundation control, but keep it in check and it tightens up nicely. Overdriven chords are extra chunky and it’s a little easier to play than the KR7, if that makes sense. It can do metal gain levels right out of the box, but a boost in front really helps keep that low end in check, so I wouldn’t pick this over say, a 6505 or Uberschall for the same basic type of sound. I’d actually put it in a very similar category to the Elmwood M90 I just picked up too, it’s an amp that has its own very unique voicing and sound, can do ultra high gain, but my favorite tones are somewhere in the “heavy crunch” territory, and I’d boost it for faster palm muted riffing. Now to try a II… and a Tre Reverb… and a K55…

More photos available here

New Amp: Elmwood M90

The first time I’d ever seen - or heard rather - an Elmwood was in an Ola Englund demo video (back when it was just “FearedSE”). I remember thinking it sounded awesome, added it to some metal playlist on my old youtube account, and promptly forgot about it for most of a decade.

But let’s face it, I have a lot of amps, so now it’s time to explore some of the more uncommon, less popular stuff. Sometimes that means quirky budget amps like last week’s Peavey Butcher, but this time, it’s this Swedish made monstrosity.

It’s a pretty small head, physically speaking, but plenty heavy with large and uniquely shaped transformers. This is the big brother to the Elmwood M60, and as far as I can tell the only difference between the two is that this M90 is a KT88/6550 equipped amp while the M60 sports a pair of either EL34 or 6L6 power tubes. Both have the same controls and features - two channels, each with drive/boosts, and a pair of master volumes. Later M60’s also have a pentode/triode standby switch for power tube operation - looks like the M90’s always operate in pentode mode.

This particular amp seems to have lived an interesting life - it was sold on Reverb over 8 years ago, and at that time it had the stock piano black plastic face panel. It was traded on TGP, this time with a new dark wood grained panel, behind a plexiglass front, and newly printed control names - before popping up again on Reverb in 2023 and then traded in to GC where I got it. It looks like they used the correct font, but they couldn’t replicate the “M90 Modena” logo that normally goes about the power and standby switches. Additionally, they misspelled “Drive” on both the channel 2 drive switch and drive amount controls - it’s a minor thing, but what a weird thing to screw up… why not just reprint?

Cosmetic issues aside, it’s a very good sounding amp. The clean channel is particularly exceptional, and adding the boost really feels great - a useful crunch setting without just sounding like a pedal, or some other sacrifice made to add some oomph to a channel that otherwise would prefer to be clean. The drive channel is very mids heavy, and can do heavier metal styles right out of the box with the boost engaged. This boost also seems to cut bass in just the right way, so it stays tight and focused just like using an external boost - I’d love to see a schematic on this one, and I’d be interested to know if this is a tube boost (I doubt it, I guess?) or a more pedal-like diode or opamp clipper.

This aggressive built-in boost with its adjustable control knob reminds me a little of a progenitor of the modern Driftwood amps. This Elmwood dates to somewhere around 2009, a solid 5 years before the first Driftwood amps came out. Of course that’s not to say that no one has ever put a tubescreamer-like circuit into an amp before or after this, just interesting the way it looks/feels on this amp.

This amp is no rectifier or 6505 clone that’s for sure though, for better or worse. That mids-forward sound, even when boosted, is always present. It’s a great amp for developing YOUR tone and sound, but it wouldn’t be my choice if I wanted to cover some classic Recto, Mark, 6505, or even Marshall sounds. I hate this cliche, but it truly is “kind of its own thing.” What this really means is that some people will just not like this amp, while others might love it - it’s more specialized than others in this category. I think it got a bit of a “metal” reputation, but I actually think the place it excels the most is in some crunchy modern hard rock, and I bet it would sound absolutely insane in stereo with a wider/scooped amp like the aforementioned Rectifiers.

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New Amp: Peavey Butcher Series 2

I occasionally search for some of the older Peaveys hoping to get a good deal. Sadly I missed out on the days when VTM’s and 80s Butchers were $300 amps, and I still can’t seem to find an Ultra (teal stripe) for sale. Bravos and Triumphs are still pretty available though and those are great amps.

Anyway, I spotted this Butcher 2, with original footswitch and in mint condition. I remember when this amp came out, and at the time I was still playing my TSL most of the tone, so the idea of an amp with Clean + Crunch, but no Lead, just seemed like a straight downgrade. My view of amp tone was a lot simpler then…

So before pulling the trigger, I took another journey through past youtube demo videos - all of which seem absolutely terrible for this amp. Old marketing material barely seems to describe the amp beyond the catch-all terms like “versatile” and “brutal british tone.” At introduction in 2010, this amp was $1499 - at the time, this was a few hundred dollars more than a 6505, 6505+, or 6534+ (introduced alongside this Butcher). I can see why, if you wanted an EL34 flavored amp, and the 6534+ was introduced at the same time as a similar, 2-channel amp based on the provenance of the 5150/6505 series, you’d completely ignore the Butcher II - I know I did back then.

Taking a second look though, I was really missing you - we all were really. This is a USA made amp that is a nearly exact copy of two Marshall circuits, with a few mods that may as well be lifted straight from the Marshall or Metropoulos forums.

The clean channel is very close to the high treble channel of a 1987 or 1959 Marshall amp, with a 1n bright cap on the volume control (on this amp, the gain control for the clean channel). For reference, the 1987X uses a brighter 4n7 cap here, and the normal channel would just be the bright cap not there at all. The main change up from the Marshall is that in this case, the Gain control is located before the first gain stage, as opposed to a standard 1987/1959 where the gain (volume) control would be located between them. Two gain stages, cathode follower, and the tone stack also has the same values - mostly - except for a pair of 49k resistors in parallel with the mid pot - not sure what those do exactly so someone can fill me in there.

The crunch channel is our 2203/2204 copy, with 3 gain stages, including the exact same 10k cathode resistor on the second gain stage just like the Marshalls. The tone stack is identical on both channels of this amp - same slopes, pots, and cap values. What this ends up meaning is that you can jump from your “plexi” clean channel to your “800” crunch channel without any major upset in tone - it’s a smooth transition if you want it to be EQ’d that way. Great for classic rock.

Okay, so two amp clones packed into one, with a footswitch to go between them that’s great already. But remember there are some “mods” to talk about now!

Mod #1 Dual PPIMV’s, plus a standard MV on the clean/plexi channel: The most obvious addition, to me, is the addition of a pair of post phase inverter master volumes, that are also footswitchable. That alone is a huge plus - you can get your grind from the clean channel without needing the huge volumes a quad EL34 NMV amp would normally need to do that. The clean volume control is also a “mod” in a sense, it is a pre-PI master volume located after the tone stack - same place a stock one is located on a 2203, and the same place my personally modded 1987X has its master control. If you still want your NMV style goodness, simple turn the master and channel volume all the way up, and use the “gain” control to dial in your sound, just like you’d do on a real NMV Marshall. Of course I’m sure someone would complain if I didn’t mention that having those volumes in the signal path, even if fully opened, still places some load on the signal, and that turning down the PPIMV does not result in power tube overdrive - if you want those things, an attenuator or playing super loud are your only options. This amp provides an extremely usable compromise for most of us.

Mod #2 Punch Control: The next major mod is the “punch” control, which only works on the crunch (2203) channel. This punch control has 12 different settings, and the way it works is by changing the values of a cap and resistor on the cathode of the first gain stage. In short, selecting position “6” of the punch control (1 is all the way to the left, position 12 is all the way to the right), you have the stock value .68u of an unmodified Marshall 2203. Personally I’ve found this control to sound best in this “stock” position, but a notch or two left or right is really useful for fine tuning. I found it a bit too extreme at either end but that’s all personal preference, and admittedly with some different EQing, or a boost in front, that opens up a lot of options for this amp.

Mod #3 Built-in Boost: Both the clean and crunch channels have separate, footswitchable boosts. These are gain boosts - not volume. The crunch channel adds a switchable cap on the 2nd gain stage, which adds a lot of gain but does result in some looseness on the low end. The clean boost works in a similar way, but on the very first gain stage of that channel. I find these boosts to work really well in tandem with a bass-cutting tubescreamer type boost in front of the amp, but they are a little too muddy otherwise. That said, turning the punch control down and shaving some bass would probably tighten it up nicely, but you’d have a brighter rhythm/unboosted sound as a trade off. It’s not perfect but it’s definitely usable - this is the kind of thing that would just be hard wired on some boutique amp and no one would be any wiser, but this amp lets you have both your modded/boosted voice and the stock voice too.

Mod #4 Effects Loop: This is an easy one, but the amp has a series effects loop, which is tube buffered, and located after the EQ’s of each channel (including the channel volumes), but before the PPIMV’s. Technical details aside, this is a really effective way to set up a good loop and it sounds great so far with everything I’ve put through it, though I’m a relatively simple player when it comes to pedals.

Final Touches: I suppose these technically count as “mods” in some sense, but they are a little more “features” in a way. First is a half power switch, this is simply drops two power tubes from the circuit. The other is the “MSDI” function, which is a compensated line output using balanced XLR, taken off the speaker tap. It is simple but effective - it has a 3-way tone switch, a level control, and a very useful ground lift button.

I never thought I’d be writing so much about a relatively forgotten Peavey, but for the price and features it’s hard not to get excited about it. If I described an amp like this: “Authentic Marshall circuit clone, big transformers, switchable mods, simple controls, USA made” - you’d probably think I was talking about an expensive boutique amp, not an inexpensive Peavey. They aren’t very common, but if you happen to walk by one I’d highly encourage you to check it out, it’s a true sleeper hit.

Photos and schematic here

New Amp: Mesa Mark III Blue Stripe from 1989

Spotted this one online in the GC used section and figured it was worth a shot. It was described to include the footswitch, but no 1/4 cable, and fully working.

It arrived in decent condition, but with mismatched power tubes - it’s normal to have 2x EL34 and 2x 6L6 with these, but while the EL34’s are matched JJ’s, the 6L6’s are two different tubes. They still sound and play well, so I suppose no real complaints there.

My actual complaint is that the reverb does not work, and this wasn’t disclosed beforehand. I took a look at the basics - tubes and RCA connectors - all is connected properly but there’s just noise when turning up the reverb control on the amp’s front panel. In addition, it blew a preamp tube (cracked, white color above the getter) after a few hours of playtime. I phoned the store that sent me the amp and they gave me a run around, and after some pressing only refunded me the cost of the shipping (about $35). It’s still not worth returning the amp, as the price paid was very good for an otherwise fully working GEQ Mark III, but I can’t help but feel a little disappointed.

Either way, I’ll replace the reverb tank, which fails the continuity test and hopefully that’ll solve the problem there, and I’ve already replaced the blown tube at my own cost.

As for the sound of the amp, it’s wonderful, as expected. The “Blue Stripe” Mark III’s supposedly have the most aggressive lead channel, and I hear it. Someone before me also conveniently added a volume control on the rear panel for the Rhythm 2 mode, to better balance that with the other channels. Rhythm 2 is a fantastic sound as well, keeping the same feel as the Lead but with a little less hair and saturation - sounds amazing boosted, as an alternate texture to the built-in Lead channel.

I generally set the amp up the same way as my Mark IV - volume on 8, drive on 8, treble 10, mids 5, bass 2, and GEQ in a nice smile shape. This does make the cleaner Rhythm 1 mode get into break up with humbuckers, but it’s not too bad. Still, I can see why the Mark IV has a separate volume control for Rhy1 and Rhy2, since that’s effectively the gain control. In addition, this Mark III doesn’t have the output master of the IV, so there is no overall master volume, which makes it a little less flexible in channel switching situations. I solved this problem by placing a volume box in the loop for home practice, and removing that box brings the amp up to expected “gig volumes.”

I’m also enthralled with the pull deep function, especially on the lead channel. I can fine tune how bassy the tone is with the GEQ, but the deep drastically alters the feel of the low end when playing - much spongier, more saturated response, which I really like, especially for lead playing.

I can’t wait to do some more comparisons between this amp and my Mark IV and Mark V, especially on the Rhythm channels.

More photos here

New Amp: Splawn Pro Mod 2005

As a bit of a Splawn fan, I’ve made it my goal to try out all of the various circuits that Scott and his team have offered over the years. One of the harder ones to find are very early high/low input models, made from late 2004 to 2005, such as this one:

These early amps have two channels and no “gears” like later models. The clean channel is controlled with a simple volume knob only, and has no EQ or other frills. Still, it’s a very nice, usable and bright clean channel, and it doesn’t seem to be affected by the preamp gain setting on the overdrive channel - this is in contrast to the 2006 QuickRod where the clean is much dirtier when using higher gain settings.

This particular amp is actually a “Pro Mod,” which is identical to the Quick Rod except it sports a quad of KT88/6550 power tubes instead of the QR’s quad of EL34’s. This amp predates the KT88 equipped “Nitro” models, and documents from the era seem to imply that the Pro Mod is aimed a little more at louder, more aggressive styles and players. However, this is no super high gain metal monster - it has far less gain than Splawns 2006 and newer. The tone is a very open, less bright than a 2203, with a tad more gain and fullness - a bit more of a classic “modded Marshall” tone, while still staying faithful to the original sound. It is less congested in the mids than my other Splawns and really lends itself well to taking a boost in front, which really adds to its versatility.

It’s also interesting that this amp predates the more modern Splawn cabinet construction, and came in a shell that is much more similar to a Marshall 1959 type. While I’m a big fan of Splawn amps, I do think their head cabinets are their weakest point, based on how many I’ve received damaged in shipping, and this finger-jointed cabinet seems much more resilient.

These amps use Magnetic Components transformers (prior to the Classic Tone branding), although it has a Mercury Magnetics choke installed. By the next year, these transformers would be Heyboers instead, before eventually returning to Magnetic Components again.

Now I’m only missing two amps in the lineage. First, for a short time in late 2005, there were some QuickRod/ProMod models that had the high/low inputs, no gears, but the clean channel had a separate 3-band EQ. The other is a current production QR with the new/old and drop B+ switches - I’ve had a recent Street Rod (nearly the same as the QR preamp) but without those switches - I’d love to compare a current model in old mode against my original 2006 QR, which supposedly that mode is based on.

More photos here