New Guitars: Gorgeous Pair of late 80s Carvin DC400's

I occasionally look for old pointy headstock Carvins but they seem to rarely come up for sale, so when I spotted a green 1990 DC400 one evening I was thrilled. I looked through the pictures to check the condition but I was already pretty sure I was going to buy it, but then I got to the last picture in the listing. Next to the green one was another, very similarly optioned blue DC400 - not yet listed for sale. Luckily, the shop that had these was located near me here in Florida so I set an alarm and called them immediately when they opened the next morning to ask about it.

Lucky for me, they still had both of them and I worked out a cash deal over the phone. Later the same afternoon, I took a long afternoon drive down to DB Music where I picked up both guitars.

These two were clearly well cared for, both kept in cases with no major blemishes to speak of. That’s quite a feat considering how fragile these pointy headstocks can be. Much of the original paperwork is intact, along with (slightly dryrotted) Carvin straps and nice condition hard cases. Modifications are minimal, but more on that later.

I should also add some context for those unfamiliar with Carvins at this time. These were made to order instruments from a list of available options. These options changed over time and some builds take longer than others, much like any other guitar custom shop. However, they were priced very aggressively, comparable to standard production line USA made guitars of the time. It’s a great value prospect and I’m always surprised they didn’t sell a lot more of them, but part of the factory direct style means you wouldn’t see these in a store unless you lived near the Carvin showroom in California. Without budget models and a thinner artist roster than others, I really just think people didn’t know about them or were afraid to risk mailing a thousand dollar check across the country in an era that long predates common internet sales.

From a modern standpoint as a collector, the biggest drawback for me besides the difficulty in finding these instruments is simply that a lot of options someone else might’ve chosen are ones that I find mediocre, or at worst actively dislike. For example, a relatively common option I’ve seen is to have the back of the neck tung oiled - I hate this on an otherwise glossy neck through guitar. I know this trend has had a popular resurgence recently but I think it looks cheap to simply tape off a line at the neck heel and headstock and leave a big chunk of the guitar unfinished or with a different finish. Example in the below catalog picture, which also gives a sampling of some options available on any guitar model (some options were also model specific).

So of course, finding two DC400’s, the top of the line model, with pointy headstocks (a rarity already), and most importantly without any bad option choices is very exciting for me.

Let’s run through them in detail now. First, a few things that both of them have in common. Since they are both DC400’s, they have highly flamed maple tops with a nice transparent gloss finish that really shows off the wood grain. Both have real abalone block inlays on an ebony fretboard with a 14” radius, black hardware, weigh a ton, and have push-tab style locking nuts. They both have the “1990+” headstock shape, which replaced the previous “Jackson style” pointy. However there is a transition period here, likely depending on order or build time, because both of these guitars have 1990 style headstocks but options like the Kahler Killer which was only available in 1989. My more standard model DC125 has a serial number in between these two DC400’s but has the old Jackson-style pointy headstock. That guitar was probably built and shipped a lot faster than these because it didn’t have custom woods, bridges, or a figured top.

Both of these guitars are neck-through construction and feature 24.75” scale necks. This scale was only available from 1979-1992, and if you wanted a pointy headstock on that scale length it was only 1988-1991.

The most unique option that they both share is the bridge choice, which is a Kahler 2710 Killer. This was Kahler’s absolute top of the line bridge for 1989 and was only made for one or two years before being discontinued. It’s technically part of the 2700 series alongside the 2760 Steeler, which is roughly equivalent to a real OFR, and the 2720 Spyder, which is a more budget oriented model. These were all made in the USA too, though that means your 6mm whammy bars won’t fit (these use Imperial sized arms). The Killer also has a unique feature called the “autolatch” which can set the bridge to a fixed state by simply turning the trem arm, so the Killer trem arms also have a piece at the bottom of the threading that is flat which turns a mechanism related to this. Usually neat little gimmicks like this get forgotten, parts lost, and then you pay through the nose if you even want to try it (I see that $189 autolatch on whammyparts), so it’s also really lucky that both of these guitars had the correct whammy bars AND autolatch pieces, plus paperwork and screws, in the cases. Really awesome find and another sign that somebody really cared about these instruments.

Okay, now for the differences, starting with the green one. This guitar has a few really special options, and it has a later serial number so it’s probably a bit further into 1990 than the blue. Easily noticeable is the reversed headstock, but it also has a color matched flame maple cap on the headstock to match the body top. The black Carvin logo is a little hard to read but looks great in the right light.

In addition, the body and neck is made from Koa, which was a $100 option for 1989 but standard on the DC400 by 1990, so it’s hard to know if this was ordered specifically or not. Either way, it looks great up close but it’s a bit darker than alder or maple would be especially in a color like green which naturally shifts a bit darker. The neck is also a very odd 2-piece design, which I’ve only seen on other Carvins of this same era. Usually multi-piece necks are 3 pieces or some other odd number so that each piece flexes against the other and that adds stability to prevent twisting, or at least that’s the idea. I’m not sure how much worse a 2-piece neck might be but there is no sign of twisting or warping and this guitar is at least 35 years old now so it seems stable enough to me.

Electronics are all stock on this one, with M22 humbucking pickups and the stock active electronics circuit intact. The controls have a good effect on the sound without being unusable at the extremes, so it’s nicely balanced. I did have occasional noise issues with it through certain amps and pedals though, so there is probably an impedance mismatch that doesn’t play nice with certain equipment. This also changes the controls a bit from what I normally expect when I see this arrangement. There is one master volume knob, then a “pan” knob that can be used with the stereo output jacks to separate which pickup output goes to which, or combine them together… not sure how to use that feature effectively but it’s interesting. The bottom two knobs are bass and treble, which can both boost and cut those frequencies, and there is a very nice feeling tactile detent in the middle position to let you know when you are at flat EQ. It has a 3-way toggle switch for the pickups, and 3 additional mini-toggle switches which can take the pickups out of phase or split the coils of the neck and bridge humbuckers respectively. Confusingly, the coil tap controls are called “Bright” for the bridge and “Deep” for the neck, but it’s clear listening to the amp that it’s simply a single coil mode.

Now for the blue one. This guitar has a black painted, non-reversed headstock, with the large white Carvin logo. This look was actually pretty cool and there’s a reason they brought this option back nearly two decades later (the “large” logo wasn’t available for some time).

The body and neck are both maple, with the neck being very highly flamed which looks fantastic. It’s a little more flamed on one side than the other, but it happens to the side facing you when playing so I really can’t complain. Unlike the other one, this is a one piece neck although the headstock does have a second piece glued on to make the pointy shape. The light color of the maple also means the blue comes out very bright and contrasty which looks great.

This one has been modified a bit in the electronics area. The active electronics have been discarded and the Carvin M22’s it originally would’ve come with are also gone. Instead there is a pair of Seymour Duncan PATB-3 Blues Saraceno pickups, the same pickup in both bridge and neck positions. I’ve used this pickup before and really loved in the neck position, but not as much in the bridge, and I still feel that way here. I just like the standard PATB-1 a lot, which I have a spare of, so I’ll probably swap that in at some point. I do love the idea of an H-H guitar with both pickups being PATB’s. With the active electronics gone, it has a more traditional control scheme much like the DC200 model of the same era. That’s two volumes, two tones, and a 3-way selector switch. For the moment, one mini toggle is a phase switch, one coil splits both pickups, and the third is disconnected. I’ll probably rewire it so that each pickup can be split separately by their own mini-switch, the same way my Koa DC200 is set up.

That’s about it. Really awesome guitars that play and sound great. I’ve played older Carvins before, in fact one of my first ever experiences with guitars in general was when I was just starting out in high school and my computer science teacher brought in a 1985 Carvin DC200, white with gold hardware, and a Tom Sholz Rockman for me to play a few times during class. I feel that if Kramer, Jackson, Charvel, etc took Fender as their source DNA to built into super-strats, Carvin came at it with a bit more of a “Gibson” influence. Basically, instead of taking a lightweight SSS bolt-on and putting humbuckers and big frets on it, they took a heavy Les Paul and trimmed it down a bit. When the Carvin DC200 launched in 1981, it was a 24.75” scale set-necked guitar, which evolved from the earlier DC150/160 and CM series (which was a single-cut LP style), so that backs up my thoughts there.

One last picture I found while doing some research - the catalog photo for the DC400 in 1992 features two guitars - one blue, one green with a reversed headstock. There are lots of differences (scale length, bridge, headstock shape, quilted tops, gold hardware) but I thought it was cool how similar this catalog page is to this pair.

More pictures and information available on each guitar’s collection page, links below:

Blue Carvin DC400

Green Carvin DC400

New Guitar: White 82 Pacer Custom + Finally finished a project

I watched this on Reverb for a little while and finally decided to make an offer. Lately, I’ve really been gathering up the earlier Kramers and I have a soft spot for these non-Floyd models. They have a certain appeal, not too different from some of the recent Charvels like the DK24 or the just released Kramer Pacer Deluxe GT. Of course, I still love a Floyd Rose (feels like home to me), but it’s nice to have something I can pick up easily and change tunings on the fly when I’m just messing around.

The white finish is original and looks quite clean from a distance, but up close you can tell this is a 43+ year old guitar with some small dings and scratches. Still, it’s impressive how bright it is, with not much yellowing of the clear coat. Even the brass traditional tremolo is still relatively bright and not too tarnished like some of my more played examples get.

It arrived with the original Schaller pickups installed, but sadly the bridge humbucker had a short between the coils. I’m fairly technical but I’ve never attempted a pickup repair, and my understanding is that many times they need to be rewound on a machine to properly repair shorts like this. I see some services online that offer this, now that I have two vintage Schallers with shorts, it may be worth getting them repaired. In the past, I’ve just bought replacements, as 80s Schaller pickups used to be 40 bucks each but a quick skim of other Reverb listings and it’s hard to find one under $100 now.

For the time being, I looked through my spare parts drawer and decided to install a Seymour Duncan SH-12 Screamin’ Demon. I originally got this pickup in a black Pacer Imperial and hardly got to enjoy it, so it’s nice to hear it again. It’s probably a hair higher output than the stock Schaller would be but not as intense as a JB (and I have so many other Kramers with JB’s in them). I also like the wiring on these earlier ones, with two volume controls and a master tone control, which lets me set my neck pickup to a quieter volume (or off) for some unique mixing or easy crunch-to-clean at the flick of a switch.

The maple neck is glossy and clean, with vintage sized frets and a fairly curved fretboard radius that makes it very comfortable to play. I just love these necks, made by ESP (yes, even this early). The original case rounds out the package, with the original manual and warranty form, although the serial number written on the tag is not the same as this guitar (seller mistake maybe?). Either way, a great addition.

More pictures here


I also finally got around to completing an old project. When I realized the bridge pickup was shorted on this guitar, I started looking through my stuff to see if I had any spare Schaller humbuckers, or Schallers installed in a guitar that doesn’t normally have them. I got out a handful of guitars including this well worn Red Pacer Deluxe. The Schaller I had in it was wrong for the white Pacer Custom (it was a 2-in-1 and dated ‘84, too new for ~‘82), but realized I never finished this project.

Originally, I had gotten it with a mirrored red pickguard, with a pair of 80s era Seymour Duncan Customs installed, a single volume, and tone "switches.” The previous owner had routed the body under the pickguard to fit the humbucker at the neck, and the entire cavity is completely coated in copper film - a very nice job. Here is that configuration below:

It was definitely a unique look, and I did keep this pickguard intact exactly as it was installed if I ever want to restore this. However, I really like the stock black pickguard look so I bought two pickguards from Warmoth, both single ply matte black, without any controls routed. One of these was HSS and the other HH. I can’t remember exactly why, but somehow I ended up installing a Schaller 2-in-1 in the bridge position and a 90s PATB-3 in the neck, with a 5-way blade switch with two dead spots, and no pots. It was technically “playable” but not ideal, although I do like the super clean look - it’d be even cooler with black covered pickups (like EMG’s or similar). I will say the PATB-3 made a fantastic neck pickup though, it sounds great in that position. This is what that looked like:

Ultimately though, I wanted to add a traditional volume knob and replace the unnecessary 5-way blade switch with a 3-way switch. I could’ve gone with an enhanced 5-way to add coil splitting options but I really just wanted something more simple… and I didn’t want to buy more parts, just use what I already have on hand. A while back I also picked up a set of Dimarzio D-Activator X’s, which I tested out briefly but didn’t really get to enjoy. I’d prefer this Schaller 2-in-1 be saved for later (or installed in the HSS pickguard, as it would’ve been stock in a Pacer Deluxe), and I also have a spare PATB-1 so I wanted the PATB-3 to be freed up for some other guitar later. So I drilled a hole for a volume pot and wired up the D-Activator X’s and sent the others to the parts bin for later use. Here’s what that looks like:

Still pretty clean, a little flair with the cream coils, and I had a nice orphaned chrome volume knob to complete the look. I’m really impressed with these pickups too, obviously super high output but the neck position is still bright and cutting. I’ve had an X2N before, which on paper should be similar to the DA-X, but I didn’t quite get along with it. The slightly mismatched coils on the DA-X (“Dual Resonance”) make a noticeable difference in the high end and there’s a lot more air in the highs while still being super high output.

Both the X2N and the DA-X have a bit of a “boosted” feel, compared to a lower output pickup (like the SH-12 on the white Pacer above, which I played through the same amp on the same day). The difference is that the X2N’s boost is broader, therefore lower frequencies a little muddier, but in its defense maybe a bit more “natural” sounding. The DA-X is still very saturated but it feels like the focus is shifted higher up into the mids. It's sort of like the difference between boosting an amp with a Klon/Klone or a Tubescreamer. The Tubescreamer has a hump in the mid frequencies that adds a lot of bite and makes palm mutes really stand out, while the Klone style circuit is flatter and just feels like the amp itself with the gain turned up a bit more. Same thing here with these pickups. In short, I no longer own an X2N (and while I have a Klone, I rarely use it).

The cooper shielding in the cavity also means that this guitar is incredibly quiet, even plugged into a high-gain amp. In fact, it’s opened my eyes to this a little bit, I don’t think I live somewhere with particularly difficult electrical or radio interference but I have to wonder if copper tape could help some of my other guitars that are a little less protected. I don’t plan on doing any drastic mods, and as a collector I do intentionally appreciate things “as they were” including flaws/noise, but still something I’ll be keeping in mind for future projects.

I’ll get to work on wiring up the HSS version of the pickguard for this guitar, but I’m quite pleased with how this turned out. This guitar is tuned to Drop C by default so now it has the pickups to match for the heavier stuff. I’m getting out of building “projects” in general, slowly selling off my spare necks/bodies/parts, so it especially feels good to have this complete instead of in limbo.

More pictures here

New Guitar: 2025 Kramer Pacer Deluxe 87 EMG Flip Flop Blue

I never buy new guitars. There just isn’t very much out there these days that appeals to me, and there are so many really fantastic guitars on the used market. So I was quite surprised to see this guitar come out under the radar last week. In fact, I only found out it existed because I saw a couple of new Pacer Deluxes in my reverb feed and looked those up. I’m not chronically online but they didn’t post about it on Instagram or anywhere else I could find for that matter.

Presenting only the second brand new guitar I’ve ever bought:

I’ve said multiple times in the past that if the current Kramer company, owned by Gibson, ever came out with a true 80s style model, especially a Pacer Deluxe (my favorite model), I’d buy one. The caveat to that was that I expected it to be made in the USA, in the same way that Gibson made reissues in the past. The 2005-2008 Baretta 85 RI wasn’t quite the model I wanted, but it clearly had a lot of attention paid in its production, they borrowed/bought real 1985 Barettas for sampling, and meticulously measured and built those as close to spec as possible with only very minor changes. Same goes for the 2008 Pacer Imperials. This isn’t exactly how I imagined a Pacer Deluxe Reissue but I want to support building this type of guitar and I want to see more, so I felt a little bit obligated to buy one. I ordered mine the day it came out, and it was sold out in less than 3 days. I guess there’s a lot more Reb Beach fans out there than I realized.

It really pains me to put the gallery page for this guitar into the “Kramer Other” section of my site instead of the “Kramer American” page. It’s not just where it is made though - I have no problem with guitars made in China like this one. I’m well aware that even the American series from the 80s were mostly parts made in Japan by ESP. There’s no avoiding this discussion and it’s such a shame that any review is going to be colored by the most notable part of the guitar: the price. It’s $1499 and available exclusively from the official Kramer website. Adjusted for inflation, that’s nearly the same as the USA-made 2008 Reissue (which was $1099 at the time).

That’s a lot of money for a MIC instrument, but I could deal with that if that price premium meant it was a top quality piece made to an exacting standard. It’s not a bad guitar by any means, but there are a lot of misses compared to a real 1987 Pacer, and many of them are relatively easy to fix. If Fender can make Stratocasters in the USA for $1300 (current Sweetwater price at time of writing), and Ibanez can make RG Genesis guitars at Fujigen in Japan, I’m not sure I understand why the price is so high. Yeah, I know with inflation my 80s Pacers (which were $1119 in 1987) would be $3000 new today, but there are USA made Charvels for $2500 and I’d happily buy a USA Kramer at that price too.

You could argue that it’s not a true reissue. I get that, it’s clearly a tribute to Reb Beach’s Pacer Deluxe from the Winger days. I’ll call it “reissue adjacent,” because it’s not like they put “87” in the model name because it was someone’s favorite number. The thing is, they got a lot wrong either way when it comes to the small details. And even if I ignore the reissue/Winger connection, and just treat it as a any regular new guitar, why would I pay $1500+ for a guitar that is not built as nicely as a Mexican Charvel, USA Strat, or MIJ Ibanez which cost the same or less?

I have a lot of minor complaints but they all add to something more when factoring in the price. It’s not a terrible guitar, the finish while not even close to real 80s flip flop blue is still a great looking chromashift color. Honestly, it looks like the guitar from the Seventeen music video so they nailed that - Reb Beach’s guitar wasn’t ff blue anyway. It had an awful setup out of the box with super high action, but after lowering the Floyd it feels a lot better. The Floyd recess is so shallow that you can hardly pull up on the bar which is such an odd design decision for an 80s shred guitar. The EMG’s… sound like EMG’s, you either love or hate them. They are USA made EMG’s, and the body has a “swimming pool” pickup route so you could do whatever combo of pickups you please if you wanted to modify it. From a purely functional perspective it’s a nice, average quality guitar.

I have a lot more thoughts about it, so I made a video. As an added bonus, I do a deep dive on Reb Beach’s Pacer Deluxe which this is clearly inspired by.

New Guitar: Early Kramer Pacer Custom

Lately, believe it or not, I have been trying to downsize my collection. It’s hard to turn off my “jump on a good deal” impulse, but I’ve really been trying to really think about what guitars I want to keep. I don’t own everything on this site anymore, but I do still have a lot of guitars and sometimes I feel like I spend more time shopping, researching, and writing about guitars than I do actually playing them and I’m a worse musician for it.

Part of that soul-searching process has led me to identify that I have a real soft spot for the earliest wood necked Kramer guitars. There’s something about them that is just special, a sense of occasion to getting one out to play it and being immersed in it. The smell of the old leather in the case reminds me of my Members Only jacket, the weight of the substantial maple body pulling on my shoulder, the feel of the old brass fittings and small frets (what we’d describe as “vintage” frets today). It’s just endlessly fascinating to me to play an instrument that was groundbreaking and modern for the time, nearly 45 years after it was built.

That brings me to today’s guitar, which is a 1982 (or perhaps late ‘81) Kramer Pacer Custom in a gorgeous “blue burst” finish.

There are a few noteworthy features of this very early serial number (B0392). For context, wood necked Kramers started around A7000 and rolled over into “B” after A9999. Within that rough range, many were still aluminum necks like the “Duke,” and quite a few were basses, so this is definitely one of the earliest guitars with the “beak” headstock shape.

The first thing I want to point out is the bridge, which ties in to the name of this model. This is a Pacer “Custom,” which at this time in Kramer history means it has two humbucker pickups and a brass 6-screw standard tremolo. The better known Pacer “Imperial” in these early days had the same HH configuration but with the ESP Flicker tremolo. By 1982, the Imperial was upgraded to the “Edward Van Halen Tremolo” which was the Rockinger bridge, but the Pacer Custom kept the standard tremolo. Then of course by 1983 you’d start to see Floyd Rose bridges replacing the Rockingers on Imperial models and the Custom model with its standard bridge was dropped entirely by then. Technically you could still order the Flicker bridge throughout this time but it was no longer on the standard catalog models.

The “Custom” moniker did return in mid-1986 but this was an entirely different guitar, using a different body shape, floyd rose bridge, and HSS pickup configuration. This model quickly became the “Pacer Custom I” because a similar model “Pacer Custom II” came out not long after with the same basic features but a different control scheme. These have their own history to dive into but I’ll save that for a future article.

Back to this guitar, it sports an interesting brass trem with a much thicker plate where the saddle screws are located and larger base plate. I have seen this bridge on a handful of other examples and it is on the 1981 catalog page, but I’ve had guitars with lower and higher serial numbers than this with a more normal looking bridge (similar to early Charvel San Dimas brass trems), so I’m not sure what these bridges are exactly. The sharp eyed amongst you may have already noticed that the trem arm screw slot has the broken off end of a trem arm inside… blame that one on Guitar Center, who stupidly shipped this guitar to me with the trem arm installed inside the case. It arrived with the case partially open and the trem arm bent beyond use, and as I carefully tried to unscrew it, it snapped off. Really a shame as 1981 brass trem arms aren’t exactly common, but the good news is that after taking these photos I was able to carefully unscrew the broken piece.

It appears at some point that the neck humbucker was replaced as well. Most likely this guitar had two standard Schaller humbuckers like the one in the bridge position (which is now called “Golden 50,” but back then was called the “Ultra Spec”), but the neck pickup is another 80s-era Schaller called the “2-in-1” with hex poles. I like both of these pickups so I can’t really complain, but if I happen across another standard Schaller I may swap that in so the pickups match stock, and the 2-in-1 would be stock on early 80s Pacer Deluxes so it’s always nice to have an extra for the spare parts bin.

It’s also worth mentioning that rosewood fretboards were uncommon at this time, with the rule of thumb being that for every 10 necks Kramer made, 9 of them were maple fretboards during the “strat head” era, and more rosewood being available during the “beak” era. This rule can be reversed for the pointy era, where rosewood became the much more common fretboard material. This makes my 6th Rosewood beak neck out of 18 total that I’ve owned, so my anecdotal evidence suggests roughly 1/3 of beak necks might be Rosewood. None of my Rosewood necks have a skunk stripe, but supposedly some do - I’d be really interested to see one if someone reading this has one like that.

Bringing things back around to where we started, this is the perfect example of a guitar I find myself wanting to hang on to even as I cull the rest of my collection. I know it seems a little disingenuous to say that as I’ve only had it for a few days, but it’s such a great snapshot into history. It’s not the original Kramer case, but you can tell the previous owner really cared about this guitar and was clearly a very big fan of The Who. The case is covered in concert and radio stickers dating from 1982 and it’s such a cool piece that calls back a strange sense of nostalgia for a time that I wasn’t even alive for.

Since I started this site, people occasionally reach out to me via email and share stories of a parent, relative, or friend, and their connection to an instrument I now own. I really appreciate those and it’s nice to draw a connection between people’s experiences and a physical object like a guitar.

More pictures here

New Guitar: Black Kramer Baretta

I’m not the biggest Baretta guy, even though it’s probably Kramer’s most famous model with its ties to Eddie Van Halen. However I am a fan of a good deal so I scooped this one up from - surprise - the Guitar Center used listings.

It’s not the most exciting guitar at first glance, but its simplicity does have a certain appeal. The black finished body is in good condition although it has a lot of polishing swirls and the color really shows any finger prints, scratches, or dirt even after a cleaning. I can tell this was a very well taken care of guitar though, even the case looks nearly brand new with barely a scratch on it, the neck is spotless, and the fretboard very healthy looking (clearly was cleaned/oiled regularly).

The previous owner swapped the hardware over to chrome, but it’s all period correct parts. Personally I’d prefer the black, and I do have a spare black Floyd Rose but I used my last set of black Schaller tuners on that flip flop blue Pacer Deluxe I wrote about a few weeks ago - I’ll see what I can find later but most likely I’ll be converting this back to black hardware. They also swapped the volume knob for an odd gold top hat knob with “tone” on it, so I swapped that for a spare strat-style Volume knob which would’ve been the factory correct knob type. I think I have a pair of black schaller strap buttons too.

Luckily the owner didn’t swap out the important parts, primarily the original Seymour Duncan SH-4 JB pickup, wound by Marcela Juarez, in reverse zebra color. I’m not one to believe some certain pickup or winder is “magic” as far as tone, but it’s just the truth that these pickups sound great and are worth a pretty penny if you can even find one. Out of the six 80s Barettas I’ve owned, half of them had this pickup removed which is a bit of a shame. I do really appreciate originality when it comes to collecting guitars, but with prices on vintage 80s Zebra JBJ’s running $250+, I just can’t possibly justify that kind of cost for what is essentially a $70 pickup with one cream coil. Even all black JBJ’s are running into the $200 range these days according to Reverb which kind of blows my mind. I know, with my attention to detail on collecting, you’d think I’d be into that sort of thing but I’m a bit too pragmatic for that.

I’ll take new photos once I get it moved over to black hardware, but I’m no hurry and the guitar plays great as-is so I’ll enjoy it for a while. I’ve had multiple black on black guitars, even including another Baretta with black/black so the chrome is a nice change of pace to add some pop to an otherwise plain instrument.

More photos here

New Guitar: Kramer "The Pacer" Cream/Tortoiseshell

I don’t often visit the listings on MusicGoRound, but I do check occasionally and happened to spot this one - I’m guessing before anyone else did because it was very fairly priced. It arrived without a case but very safely packed (Guitar Center could use a lesson from these guys) and really great condition. This came from the Kenosha WI location, so top marks to them.

This is a fairly unique and uncommon model that only existed in the early wood-neck Kramer era, only made from 1982-1983. Most of the ones I have seen are similar to this example, although they were technically available in other color combinations almost all of them are cream colored bodies with red tortoise pickguards, and this is the second one like that I’ve had. My first one (an earlier serial number) has a maple fretboard and oil finished neck, but this one has a rosewood board and glossy lacquer - just enough of an excuse to keep both!

The key feature of “The Pacer” models is the pickguard and triple single coil pickup arrangement, and all of these models came with gold/brass hardware and the Rockinger bridge. Very early examples have the Strat style “P” headstock shape, but most of these will have the beak shape as they came out later than the more common Pacer models like the Imperial or Special. There is a late “The Pacer” in the 1983 catalog which sports chrome hardware and an Original Floyd Rose, and by this time the Pacer Deluxe also existed with its black pickguard, many more color options, and H-S-S pickup layout. I have never seen another “The Pacer” equipped with a Floyd besides the one in the catalog. Interestingly, these models also used 11-hole pickguards, while the later Pacer Deluxes used the “vintage” 8-hole guards (which Fender only used from 1954-1959, excepting reissue/signature models).

There are a few changes from stock on this one. First, all of the fine tuners on the Rockinger have been replaced, which is too bad - those screws are impossible to find, though it is pretty minor. Next is the removal of the Rockinger locking nut, replaced with a standard string tree. If I happen across a Rockinger string lock I’ll restore it, but they are nearly impossible to find and objectively a downgrade so I’m not too fussed about it. Last, the knobs would’ve been gold or brass metal dome knobs, but this one has more standard strat-style knobs, and it’s been rewired to be volume/tone/tone (it originally would’ve been vol/vol/tone, though with 3 pickups I can see why a master volume makes more sense).

Speaking of wiring, the pickups have also been swapped out for a full set of Adder Plus Corporation single coils, which was a small boutique pickup maker based in Illinois that operated from roughly 1988 until 2009. Here is the archive of the Adder Plus website for some more information on these pickups. The ones in this guitar are called APC “Slicker Blues,” have 1993 date codes, and patent pending text (later ones I’ve seen for sale have patent numbers listed). I will say these are fantastic sounding pickups and I really like them, a little hotter than a standard single but not overly raspy or thin, and the middle is reverse wired for hum cancelling in positions 2 and 4. These were apparently designed by Mel Lace after his brother “half stole” the design for the Lace Sensor pickups which Fender used in the late 80s Strat Plus (first year 1987). Later, Lace separated from Fender and became a whole operation still in business today offering much more than just single coils. I’m sure there is an interesting story to dig up there but I’m just happy with the way they sound and I’ll leave it at that.

Great guitar and very pleased with it - time to find it a nice hard case to live in when it’s not being played.

More pictures here

New Guitar: Kramer Pacer Deluxe Flip Flop Blue

I spotted this one for a fair price, and I’m a sucker for a maple fretboard especially attached to the very cool “flip flop blue” body. Pacer Deluxes are my favorite Kramer model, and I’ve owned more Pacer Deluxes than any other type of 80s Kramer (this is my 18th at the time of writing). There’s something special to me about the more innocuous look of a Stratocaster-type guitar, with a pickguard, but ramped up a notch with the pointy headstock and floyd rose. The black single-ply pickguard seals the look for me, a lot cooler looking than a white guard.

Of course, by modern standards it’s not a “metal” guitar, but it certainly was for the time - 1986 in this case. The finish is very bright, almost sky blue, in most direct light (such as my pictures with camera flash), but has a nice purple sheen at angles and the occasional bit of pink or maybe a pale green depending on how you hold it. This lighter color is accentuated by the maple fretboard, even though this one has aged into a nice deep yellow, and contrasts nicely with the black hardware.

You’re seeing it pictured here after cleaning - every guitar I receive goes through a meticulous disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly. The previous owner of this one must’ve been a heavy cigarette smoker, or spent a lot of time in smoky bars .I just barely made the cutoff for growing up when you could smoke inside restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, so I do have some first hand experience there. I even have some hazy digital point-and-shoot camera photos where you can just make out my face through the smoke to prove it. Anyway, the case had a very strong smell of cigarettes, and the guitar itself was coated completely in a thin translucent brown film. It’s too bad I didn’t take a picture, a before and after comparison would’ve been cool. It really dulled the sparkle and charm of this finish.

I left the case open for over a week to air out, and while it still smells like smoke right up close it’s mostly dissipated. The body on the other hand had to be scrubbed with a wet cloth, and the brown film came off in clumps (gross…). The neck was a bit cleaner from being played, but it does have a more yellow color than I’d expect. That’s likely a combination of the smoke as well as years of sunlight or gigging exposure. Still, after cleaning, it’s in pretty great condition, with some impressions mainly on the rear of the body but otherwise quite nice. The flip flop finishes seem to be “softer” to me, I’m not sure if it is the clear coat they used or whatever the top coat is, but my flip flop pink Pacer Deluxe has a very similar pattern where if viewed from a shallow angle, it has more “bumpiness” especially on the back where belt buckles or shirt buttons make contact.

As for the technical bits, it did arrive with some minor modifications. The first one is that the Floyd Rose wood screws are gone and replaced with more modern studs, as well as a collar type trem arm instead of the screw-in style which would’ve been correct for this year. I’m fine with this change because one of the major flaws of Pacer Deluxes is that the wood between the treble side floyd post and the electronics cavity routed into the body is quite thin, so heavy whammy users have a tendency to crack or elongate the wood there. The fatter studs pressed into the body spread the load out a bit more and resolve this problem nicely, and it’s a good reliability change to make even on a guitar like this one which has no evidence of cracking in that area. In fact, the only reason I don’t do this mod to every Deluxe I own is because I’m still a bit of an originality stickler, and I am not a heavy whammy user anyway so I can maintain them fine with the stock wood screws. I did double check to make sure it was a real German OFR while I was cleaning though.

The next change though I did reverse - it arrived with black Gotoh 135° tuners instead of the correct West German Schaller tuners. The neck is truly an American one, not a relogoed Focus neck, so I’m not sure why this was done - and they aren’t the 90° Gotoh tuners used on some other American series Kramers in various serial number ranges (which this one is very close to, E5xxx). I’m nitpicking a bit here of course but this should’ve had black Schallers, which I conveniently had a spare set of, so I simply swapped those on. Since this required taking the strings off, it let me do a deep cleaning of the neck and headstock as well as get under the bridge area too.

One last note, inevitably FF Blue Deluxes draw some parallels to Reb Beach of Winger fame’s Pacer Deluxe. I want to cover that but as I’m writing this I realize that’s going to be a pretty big can of worms that really deserves its own post. So for now, just know that this guitar is NOT all that similar to his, other than it being a blue Kramer.

More pictures here

New Amp: Early, Modded, Snakeskin Soldano Hot Rod 50 Plus

Guitar Center recently ran a 10% off used gear coupon for Memorial Day so I perused the listings and spotted this very nicely priced Hot Rod. Even from GC’s notoriously poor pictures, I could tell this was going to be a unique piece, with two additional knobs on the front panel and a clearly visible 6V6 tube in the rear. Sometimes mods like this can be risky, and I never want to end up with someone else’s “rat’s nest” problem, but I figured this was worth a shot.

Well, there’s some good news and some bad. I’ll start with the background: This is an early Hot Rod 50+, probably from somewhere around 1997. The first HR50+’s came out in 1995 and ran until 2006. Post 2006 HR50+’s are easy to identify as they have a factory Depth knob and lack the Slave Out 1/4 jack on the rear panel. There is also the non-plus Hot Rod, which came out as early as 1992 and lasted until the Plus changes around 2006, but finding earlier models is much more common than later ones, likely because the non-plus Hot Rod’s didn’t sell that well once the Plus came out. Very early Hot Rods such as this one came with Schumacher transformers (just like Mesa Rectos!), but later ones like my example from 2004 switched to Mercury Magnetics.

This beauty comes wrapped in a snakeskin headshell which is definitely a cool look, although I sold my snakeskin Kramer Baretta already - too bad, that would’ve been a nice pairing. All of the knobs go up to 11, except for the controls added by the mod. It’s a 2-channel amp, the first channel is called “Normal” and the second is “Overdrive,” and the only way to use both channels is via footswitch.

The Normal channel is not really a clean channel, although you can kind of dial it that way. It lacks headroom and gets pretty crunchy even with the gain around half, and is roughly equivalent in gain to a single channel JCM800 with the gain maxed out, but voiced differently of course. It uses different values, but the basic structure is very similar - 3 gain stages, cathode follower driving the tone stack, but with a tube-buffered effects loop crammed in before the EQ controls. This is somewhat similar to a Marshall 2555 Silver Jubilee, which also has the effects loop before the EQ - and odd choice that some people don’t like, as it can cause level issues. It also means your effects get a louder, raw non-EQ’d guitar tone, and then your amp’s tone controls have an impact on the sound coming from your effects. In contrast, the more standard effects loop design is located after the EQ but before the master volume (or phase inverter), so your effects pedals would see a signal that has already been through the amp’s EQ.

The Overdrive channel shares some of its signal path with Normal, but with the addition of another gain stage which is the famous “cold clipper.” For perspective, the JCM800 2203 also uses a cold gain stage in the 2nd stage (out of 3), but Soldano’s design uses a much more aggressive cold clipper as the 3rd stage out of 4, excluding buffers and cathode followers (note: Bogner Ecstasy Red also does this). This Overdrive channel’s bones are extremely similar to the flagship SLO100 model, but with a handful of different voicing values.

Now on to the mods. So far there are two notable ones, the most obvious being the addition of an Accutronics long-spring reverb tank. This mod adds reverb to the amp, obviously, but the implementation is the most unique I’ve seen in any amp, and it’s the kind of mod I dreamed of doing at various times to other amps as a lover of great reverbs. Basically, this is done in the style of a Fender outboard reverb tank, like the Fender ‘63 Reverb RI. That includes the addition of a single 6V6 power tube and another 12AX7 to drive the reverb signal. The original Fender outboard units used a 12AT7 and a second 12AX7 buffer, but this design isn’t an exact duplicate of the Fender circuit, and the amp already has a tube buffer for the effects loop (which this reverb uses half of). The addition of these two tubes did require the power tube sockets to be moved over to the side and additional holes drilled in the chassis, which you can see in the picture below:

There’s also a transformer mounted to the top of the chassis as well as the standard RCA send/return jacks for the spring tank. Internally, the Schumacher choke was also moved to the side to make room. All of the reverb circuitry is mounted to terminal strips, no PCB’s, and it’s even footswitchable with a 1/4 jack on the rear panel. Also on the rear panel is a “drive” control, this is essentially the “dwell” control on a Fender outboard unit and controls the length of the reverb decay. On the front panel, there are two additional controls added, labeled “level” and “tone.” Level is essentially the mix control, how much reverb signal you hear compared to the unaffected signal, and tone is a very useful control that can be used to dial in just how bright the reverb sounds. The tone turned up high results in a very present reverb sound, extremely clear but maybe a little distracting at higher dwell/mix levels. Many digital reverb pedals allow you to set a Hz or KHz taper where the treble is rolled off, same thing here with the analog circuit, and you can roll that off as much as you need to. It’s very flexible and sounds absolutely fantastic.

I’d also like to give a special thanks to my friend Micha, who traced this reverb circuit out for me. It sends just after the effects loop send buffer tube stage, and returns after the EQ just before the phase inverter. Our best guess is that this mod was done in 2001. Now the bad news, as he pointed out to me, it looks like there is a little troubleshooting to be done here as there is a bad cap and clearly burnt resistor as part of this circuit (pictured below). The work never ends! (Update 8/20/25 - replaced burnt resistor, 6V6 tube was bad, all working now).

There is another mod on this amp, which you can barely see in the above picture at the top left, a yellow capacitor and piggy backed resistor. This is a “depth” mod, but instead of a pot to allow adjustments, it is a fixed value. I suppose I’d prefer a knob to turn but I really can’t complain with this value as it sounds great. I did quite a bit of A/B testing between this amp, my 2004 Hot Rod Plus, and my 2004 Avenger. This Hot Rod is much thicker and fuller sounding than my 2004 model, maybe a hair less cutting in the high mids, but overall a bit more pleasing sound to my ear. The Avenger is very similar sounding to this, as that amp has a depth control already, so it can be dialed to be very close. I think the two channels and the very flexible reverb give this amp the edge though, so I suppose this is now my favorite Soldano amp of the three.

New Amp: Orange OR100

This is one of those amps pretty high up on my list because I really wanted to compare with my other Oranges, and the nomenclature confuses me a bit.

What I mean is - is this like an OR50 with a clean channel? Or a more classic OR80/120 with an extra channel? Why does this exist when the Rockerverb runs alongside it, since they have such similar features, and how much circuitry does it share in common?

The Orange standard naming is usually that “OR” series amps are single channel, but that still leaves a huge range. For example, the OR15 (great amp) is basically identical to a Rockerverb dirty channel. On the other hand, the OR50 is possibly one of the best amps ever made in my opinion and if I had to pick only 5 amps to keep that’d be one of them, and it shares absolutely nothing in common with the Rockerverb, Thunderverb, Dual Dark, AD30 or otherwise.

Well here it is, and I can finally compare with my other Oranges. Let’s talk features first. It has two channels, the clean is a volume and 2-band EQ, and the dirty channel is volume, gain, and a 3-band EQ. On the rear panel, it has an effects loop, a switch to drop 2 power tubes from the circuit (front panel also has full/half power mode, which is a pentode/triode switch I’m sure), and three footswitch jacks. The channel switch is obvious, but the other two are pretty interesting. “Boost Global” is a fixed volume boost that can be engaged on either channel that doesn’t add much gain (if any at all). “Gain Boost” however adds quite a bit of upper mid emphasis and gain as a result, and with this engaged it equals a Rockerverb in that area.

Now that I’ve done extensive A/B testing, I can confidently say this does not sound like a Rockerverb. It has a different texture, a little looser on the low end, I’d say a hair more “classic” feeling, though this is still a high gain amp and it is no substitute for a classic Orange if that’s the sound you are after.

Here’s where I’m going to complain a little bit though - yes it is a great sounding amp, no doubt about that. However to me, having the “punch” control (like on the OR50) is absolutely crucial to this type of amp design. This amp being so close to the Rockerverb with the same controls just feels like a missed opportunity to set it further apart, to appeal to a different audience. When these amps were new, the OR100 was much more expensive than a Rockerverb and I’m not sure I’d be able to justify that difference especially buying online. There’s a reason the Rockerverb is still going strong while the OR100 is long discontinued and hard to find used at that.

Another issue is the gain boost requiring a footswitch - I have a pile of footswitches so it’s no problem for me, but since it’s on a separate jack, it’s kind of annoying that you’d have to have something plugged in to trigger that gain boost. It’d be nice if you could set it to be on by default whether something is plugged in there or not.

To end on a nicer note, the EQ section on the dirty channel does feel like it has a bit more range to it than a Rockerverb, and as such adds quite a bit of versatility to what this amp can do.

So maybe I’m dreaming a little bit but if I were making an OR100 at Orange today, I’d be taking these bones and adding that punch knob (or a F.A.C. type knob) and voicing the top end to be a little less modern. Let the Rockerverb stay in its space and push this one towards the classic Orange sound. Who knows, maybe someday we’ll see an OR100 Mk2 - the OR30 sure looks like it’s on the right track.

New Guitar: GKG Custom 2

This is a lesser known Kramer “Kousin,” coming out of the Gary Kramer Guitars operation around 2009. Let me set the background a little here - around this time there was a renewed interest in Kramer, at the tail end of the MusicYo era (owned by Gibson) which was kind of an experiment with buying “factory direct” guitars online from overseas - a relatively new concept for 1999. They weren’t the best guitars but the price to quality ratio was pretty good and they must’ve sold decently well because it led to the USA made Baretta 85 reissues and Jersey Star’s around 2004 and culminating in the excellent 2008 Pacer Imperial reissues, also made in the USA.

In 2006, Gary Kramer, who was one of the original founders of Kramer guitars proper, started his own line of guitars. It’s worth mentioning that Gary Kramer was instrumental for the late 70s aluminum necked guitars, but left Kramer fairly early on to move back to California - kind of funny but all of those black and gold pointy headstock Kramers of the 80s hair metal days had his name on them but he wasn’t part of Kramer at that time. Anyway, after a nearly 30 year break, he returned to guitar manufacturing starting with some very unique designs like the Turbulence. If you’re interested in more of this, I’d highly recommend reading either this article from his website or this interview. Side note, the title of that interview (“Don’t call it a come back”) is the opening line for LL Cool J’s hit “Mama Said Knock You Out” - you could say I’m a bit of a hip hop fan too so I thought that was kind of funny.

Ok, preamble out of the way, let’s get to the guitar itself:

What we’re looking at here is a “Custom 2,” which is one of the later models before GKG stopped making guitars. It predates the Russian Roulette and RR2, which I wrote about a few months ago. The original GKG Custom came out sometime in 2007 and featured a HH pickup configuration, block inlays like a Les Paul, and had a very interesting body shape with some neat carving in the top along with a painted neck.

This Custom 2 is much more straightforward, with a flat front of the body (no carving) and a more standard unpainted bolt-on neck. A single direct mount humbucker, volume knob, and OFR are the only things on the face of the body so it has a really great clean look, but the back of the body still has some very interesting contouring and is very comfortable to hold. It reminds me a little bit of an Ovation in a way, where the back is rounded off but the front flat.

The highlight though has to be the neck, which very closely emulates a 1980s era Kramer claw neck - called “Sabertooth” by GKG. It’s very glossy, with aged white binding that matches the body color almost perfectly. Interestingly, the body has black binding (but these were also available in black with white binding, same neck). The neck isn’t a 3-piece maple like an ESP-made claw neck though, it’s actually a one piece with a scarf joint. Banana headstock Kramer necks from 83-85ish also came with this style so it’s kind of a cool hybrid of those two eras.

I feel I need to mention that part of the reason I find this guitar cool is unlike some of the more recent Gibson/Kramer guitars, it’s not trying to pretend to be something earlier. Ok - GKG Custom 2, the name evokes some similarities with 80s models (Pacer Custom 2), the neck inlays, pointy headstock, and floyd all call back to that time but it’s really doing its own thing. Maybe I’m a little “old man yells at clouds” here but I really dislike this trend with modern Kramers being named after a year or model from the 80s but then diverging from it so much. If you call a guitar “1984 Baretta” I want it to be as close as reasonably possible to a real 1984 Baretta. If you make a guitar with 2 humbuckers and a beak headstock, don’t call it a Baretta because it isn’t one, ya know? I guess I could say the same for MusicYo era stuff though.

Phew, well tangents aside, this is a really fantastic guitar. I’d have a hard time believing this is an aughts Korean made guitar because the quality is top notch - great fretwork, finishing is great, binding is meticulously well done, and it sounds great. According to the GKG site, this has a real OFR on it but I suspect it’s a Floyd 1000 before that model distinction existed. I have to search my memory a bit but I recall when the Korean made Floyd’s first started showing up people were a little upset that they were called them OFR but manufactured outside of Germany, even if the quality and metal used is theoretically the same. Next time I change strings, I’ll take a peak and update this post.

Anyway, I’d certainly buy another and I’d love to get my hands on a regular Custom one of these days. Prices for these things are all over the place, they were not that expensive to begin with but it seems they sold so few they aren’t exactly easy to find, and the Custom 2 is even less common. A great addition to my collection.