New Guitar: Ibanez RG752LWFX

I’ve been sort of looking for a 7-string guitar to add to the collection, but it hasn’t been a huge rush for me. For a little while, I had a couple of 6-strings tuned down as if they were 7’s just without the top string and that was good enough, but I knew I’d eventually want the real deal in some form.

I spent a lot of time narrowing down my search and I originally wanted an early 90s Ibanez 540S7 or S540-7, since I’m such a big fan of the S series guitars. The idea of a 540S with an extra string sounded just perfect, but these guitars were very difficult to find and I really just didn’t want a plain black guitar (the only stock color these were available in for the US market). Later S-series 7-strings lacked some other feature I considered important so I had to expand my search a bit.

I settled on a few RG’s, specifically the RG752AHM in Plum Burst was my most wanted (and still is). I love maple fretboards and that purple is such a great color. By extension though, I also looked at RG1527’s, RG7620’s, and the other RG752 models. I spotted this RG752LWFX for a steal and figured this was my chance.

As my first, and currently my only, 7-string instrument, it really checks a lot of boxes. The fixed “Gibraltar” bridge routes the strings through the body and allows me to change tunings easily - a nice plus compared to a floating bridge especially since I’m still not sure exactly what songs I want to play with this yet. It has locking tuners as well so it should be absolutely stable.

Pickups are Dimarzio PAF-7’s which is the lowest output Dimarzio 7-string humbucker available. It’s a quality pickup and sounds great on my first play test. It’s bright and punchy, and helps keep things crystal clear in the lower register even with a lot of gain (I used an ENGL Savage for my first tests). I will admit that I will have to experiment at some point with a higher output pickup, so maybe I’ll try something like a Crunch Lab 7 or Tone Zone 7. I can always swap back if I find it too muddy for what I’m playing.

The switch is also a 5-way, what I call a “super switch” (Jackson/Charvel terminology there). It gives a few extra tonal options and honestly if I ignored that extra string this would be a great sounding guitar for all of the other stuff I play… I think that’s a good sign.

Both the neck and body are fully bound, and so is the headstock (unlike my old RG550DX, still not sure why they did that). This is a Prestige model Ibanez after all, the top of the line production models made in the famous Fujigen Japan factory. The top wood is a limba with a black burst, while it’s not the most exciting color to my sensibilities it’s a lot more interesting than solid black to me. The rest of the body is basswood like most RG’s, and the neck is a 5-piece maple with two wenge stripes. The fretboard is apparently something called “Marbled Rosewood,” which I’ve never heard of before, and was only available 2016-217 (mine is a 2017 model). Standard Rosewood was used 2014-2016 and 2018, and this model was discontinued in 2018.

My only gripe so far is that it did not arrive with the standard red plush prestige case - or any case at all for that matter. For the price I suppose that’s fair but first order of business will be to put it in a case, and based on the near mint condition of the guitar, I’d be really surprised if it wasn’t kept in the case before I got my hands on it.

For those who aren’t aware, there is an excellent Ibanez Wiki page with tons of details about every model going back for years. It makes buying and collecting Ibanezes a lot more straightforward than some other makers, or especially Kramer and ESP which didn’t seem to document almost anything. Here is a link to the RG752LWFX page on that wiki.

More pictures available here.

New Amp: KSR Ares

I was scouring the Guitar Center used listings and I spotted a picture of a KSR Juno for a ridiculous price - $1250. The listing title said Ares but lets face it, Guitar Center’s listing titles and pictures are both equally unreliable, so I figured I’d risk it. I already have an Orthos 2 which is a very good amp, but the Juno is appealing to me with the separate EQ’s for the two lead channel modes. Once my order shipped and I saw that the package was only 31lbs, I knew it was going to be an Ares to my disappointment.

Of course, that’s not to say this isn’t a great amp. In this space of smaller amps, although this doesn’t quite count as a “lunchbox” amp, it’s very appealing. It’s kind of like a slightly more serious portable amp, sporting a full 50w power rating and very large transformers, with a choke, and high end components.

This particular amp is technically an Ares “II,” although I don’t think that is an official name. The difference is that this version of the amp has the two 6-way “feel” controls in place of the earlier version which just had 3-position “fat” switches like the Colossus. The Lead channel is the standard KSR/Rhodes style drive, which is gainy and saturated, but extremely polished and I’d say polite sounding, perhaps too smooth. I had the same critique of the Orthos, I felt like the amp was going for an “already mastered” type sound and lacked a little bit of personality and character. Still, these are superb amps if that’s the sound you are after.

This amp basically has the Lead section lifted right out of the Orthos, with a switchable effects loop and two master volumes. When you engage the 2nd master, it also uses the bottom row of voicing configurations, so that does add some versatility to the amp.

One of the biggest gripes I have about this amp (and the Orthos) is that the Master 1 mode has a crunch switch which heavily reduces the gain of the amp, and wow does it sound like absolute garbage. I don’t know what is going on behind the scenes here, but it really feels like it just chops the gain off about halfway between two stages and doesn’t do any other shaping. It’s not really usable to me, the bass is all cut to voice the amp for metal, so the crunch mode is incredible thin and bright sounding, but it also never gets clean sounding or dynamic with the guitar volume like I’d expect from an amp more dedicated to mid-gain tones. Obviously this is not the focus of the amp so I won’t complain too much. I did notice that on the KSR website, you can select a “clean mod” for an extra $250 which makes the crunch switch knock the amp down to an even lower gain level, so I really wonder how effective that actually is.

While I’m complaining, I also did a lot of A/B testing of this amp against my Orthos 2, which is the 100w version. They both have nearly identical core tones, as expected, both get plenty gainy and overall sound very good for heavier styles, almost akin to a 5150/6505 but with less grit. However, through the same cab and at the same volume level (measured by dB meter), the Orthos is just so much wider sounding. The Orthos has more extended lows and highs, so in contrast the Ares sounds a little… less than it could be. I was surprised because the Ares is pretty heavy for a small amp with plenty large transformers. For someone like me who doesn’t mind playing a 50w+ full size amp at home, I’d rather have the Orthos here, and if I wanted a lunchbox style amp, the Ares is still too large and high wattage. Again, I know I’m being too particular here and I’m sure this amp has its fans, but it just doesn’t speak to me.

Money is a little tight right now so I think this one will have to be returned to GC. Too bad it wasn’t the Juno, now I’m wondering how the 50w Juno would compare with the 100w Orthos…

More pictures here

New Amp: Ashdown Peacemaker 50

This is one of those deep cut amps that really deserves a lot more recognition. Many times when I buy amps, I sort by “price: high to low” when hunting. I don’t always have time to keep going all the way down and I have a tendency to stop once I start to see the same amps over and over (how many 50w EVH 5153’s are there around $800? Must be hundreds at any given time…). Anyway I had some spare time one day and I spotted this Ashdown amp all the way down in the $300-ish range on MusicGoRound. I had no idea what it was so I did a little research - hand wired, turret board construction, maybe some Matamp connection… ok, interest piqued.

Before I get into it, I want to give huge props to the Littleton CO MusicGoRound store, who originally did not have this amp available for shipping and took a little bit of convincing to do so. They did a great job packing it up and it arrived perfectly. It’s a very heavy amp and I appreciate the risk they took shipping it.

It’s a single channel amp with a very interesting story behind it. Ashdown Engineering is a relatively well known UK-based manufacturer of bass amplifiers, although they never seemed to really break into the US market. The Peacemaker series was a (largely unsuccessful) attempt at both breaking into the guitar market and the US market.

The Peacemaker series actually consists of two separate lines of amplifiers, and the naming is a bit confusing. The Peacemaker 20, 40, and 60 are all standard production line, multi-channel, tube, PCB amps. I haven’t played one of these but they are very inexpensive and not all that well regarded. I’d still like to try one for myself though.

On the other hand, the Peacemaker 50 and 100 are both hand-wired amps, designed by Dave Green of Matamp fame, with transformers by John Page. I don’t really know who John Page is and I couldn’t find hardly anything about him online, but he is mentioned both in the release announcement and the sales copy for website listings. These amps came out in 2001. Sometime around 2004, a Peacemaker “Custom” 100 appears on the Ashdown website, but I couldn’t find any more information about this model other than it looks quite a bit different, with a single input and separate master volumes for the high and low modes. I gathered up a lot of information on these amps which I’ll put at the end of this article, but keep reading for a review of this individual amp.

The Peacemaker 50 has two gain controls which are both active all the time, your standard treble/middle/bass/presence EQ section, and a master volume. There are two inputs, the first is a “normal” input, while Input 2 is a “bright” input. Both sound fantastic. It also has a Character Switch on the rear panel, which engages some additional gain stages and adds a lot of cut - it’s still very vintage sounding to my ear. The rear also includes an effects loop and a pentode/triode switch for the power tubes. The Peacemaker 50 as shown here is equipped with KT88 power tubes, while the Peacemaker 100’s came with a quad of EL34’s.

It’s clearly in the same vein as an early Orange or Matamp type design, incredibly thick and full sounding, and fuzzy when gained out. The two gain controls really help in adjusting the sound, something you wouldn’t normally get on an amp like this, so you can keep the amp a little tighter than those traditional designs and with the character switch, much higher gain too. Of course, it does the authentic tones spot on, and playing it through a Greenback equipped 4x12 is a hell of an experience, I half expected to see that all my leg hair had vibrated off at the end of my first session with it.

I usually don’t have much to say about the physical features of an amp, but it’s also a very slick, practical design. There is no top handle, instead there is a handle on either side. The chassis itself doesn’t extend very wide, so you can easily fit large hands on the sides to pick it up, and this is how I carry most amps I own anyway rather than using the top handle. It’s a lot easier on the back. I know there are other amps that do something similar now, like Wizards or the EVH 100w’s, but for 2001 this was pretty innovative.

One of the other eye-catching features of this amp is the front panel VU Meter, which not only works, but is extremely useful. The rear includes a control which allows you to select each power tube and measure the bias right on the front panel. The rear panel is simply held on by velco like a front-loaded speaker cab, and there is a pot and fuse for each tube that you can turn to adjust the bias right there, no multimeter necessary. If you’re happy with the bias, you can then set the VU Meter to show volume… and watch the needle spike up and down as you play. That’s just awesome.

The design of the chassis is also just gorgeous, with a heat shield between the power tubes and the preamp tubes. It has enormous heavy transformers along with a choke. Interestingly, the mains transformer is marked for a Peacemaker 100, but the output is the 50w version. This is normal as all of the Peacemakers were staged as if they were 100’s, then some set up as 50’s near finishing. Interesting that there are even tube sockets for another pair of power tubes, you’d think they’d just leave empty holes there or use a simple plastic cap.

I actually emailed Ashdown to ask about the transformers, as well as request a schematic, and that leads to another interesting discovery. I actually got a reply back from Dave Green himself, who still works at Ashdown Engineering, and while he says there is no schematic available, he had an interesting anecdote about the design of the amp:

it was made specifically for a certain artist wjho had an “appetite for destruction” and tuned whilst we were in the states

I don’t mean to be dense, but does he mean the amp was originally designed for Slash? If that’s the case, there is zero online information about that. Perhaps it was one of those deals that they couldn’t say for a while. I’m not a huge Slash fan but I do know he was playing his own signature Marshall 2555SL’s around that time, and this Peacemaker definitely sounds nothing like a 2555. Then again, he’s with Magnatone now so I have no idea, maybe he wanted a different amp for studio use or some other purpose - it’s not like professional players just use one amp forever or anything. Either way, very interesting and if anyone knows more, please let me know.

Alright, I have a couple more loose ends to tie up, for those who care about little details. I’m going to put all of the pictures into galleries at the end to save space because this article is already far too long.

First, very early Peacemakers had slightly different knobs than mine. Promotional material and some pictures I located of another for sale with serial number 0006 have silver color with 8 small dots on the face. For comparison, my amp is serial number 0016… no idea how many were made in total but I’d be amazed if it was more than 50. Here are some photos of that SN 0006 Amp:

Second, I have photos of what appears to be a prototype or very early Peacemaker 100, dated 2001, without a silk screened rear panel and a different internal layout. I found these on an amp repair shop’s facebook page (sorry, I have forgotten exactly where now). This one also appears to be in the “birdcage” cabinet instead of the traditional wooden cabinet, which was optional. Photos of that amp:

Third, these amps were actually spun off into another brand name called “Hayden.” The Peacemaker 20/40/60 also made this transition, but I have never seen a Hayden Peacemaker that wasn’t the “custom” version which is different from my amp. There are quite a few other very cool looking Hayden amps, with a whole series of UK made hand wired amps. The Hayden website existed from 2005-2020, but sadly I can only get useful info out of the archive from around 2008, and by then the hand wired Peacemakers are long gone. The Custom is the one with the two master volumes, but interestingly the Hayden versions have both high and low inputs, while the Ashdown version only has the single input. Here’s a photo of the Ashdown version of that amp compared with two Hayden’s I was able to find from old Reverb listings:

Final bits here, the official announcement of the amps from NAMM 2002, a screenshot of the Ashdown website circa June 2004 of the Peacemaker Custom. I was not able to find the original Peacemaker website page, it looks like the site used some now unsupported discussion board back then, so I wasn’t able to locate the peacemaker page. I did scour over an hour of footage from a 2003 Beyonce concert at Wembley to find a shot of her guitarist Shaun Carrington using one in that show (the bassist is also using an Ashdown amp at this time). The last photo is of Stevie Salas, I think with his band The IMF’s here.

Here is the manual for the Peacemaker series amps, prior to the “Custom” version.

And a Brochure for the Peacemaker Custom series circa 2004.

Here are more photos of the amp itself.

As I dig down into some of the other Ashdown/Hayden amps, I have to say I am very interested. The Classic Lead looks and sounds great, and so does the Vanquish/AGM30 and Speakeasy. Thanks for reading!

New Guitar: Another... yes ANOTHER '82 Kramer Pacer Bent Pipes graphic

Well, I’ve done it again. This is now my third “Bent Pipes” graphic Kramer Pacer. This time, a friend and fellow Kramer Forumz member Dave sent me a message because he had tabs on another Bent Pipes (a really sweet custom order with black hardware and a Floyd) and he didn’t need two. I found that funny as I already have two and here comes a third but I really love these guitars and this is a very cool graphic.

And maybe I’m just looking for reasons to justify it, but this is technically different from the other two. This is a two humbucker Imperial model with a Rockinger bridge (the “EVH” tremolo). My other Rockinger-equipped Bent Pipes is a Special (single humbucker). The first Bent Pipes I got is also an Imperial, but with a brass fulcrum trem. Ok, I’m stretching a little bit here.

It originally arrived with a double cream Dimarzio bridge humbucker, probably a Super Distortion, but for some reason one coil seemed to stop working. So in the spirit of all the early 80s “EVH” stuff, I decided to put in a Seymour Duncan SH-5 Custom, wired by Lidia Daniel. For those that aren’t aware, the Duncan Custom was originally called the Van Halen pickup and was used in advertising material circa 1979.

As expected, the guitar is fantastic. Nicely built, great feeling neck. It’s a vintage feel, glossy lacquered and with small frets by modern standards, but plays great especially for classic rock stuff. I’m very partial to these guitars and this is a great example.

One noteworthy detail, later Rockinger systems like this one only have 5 allen screws on the locking mechanism just after the brass nut. The highest two strings share one lock, while earlier Rockingers would have a separate screw for each string which resulted in the high E/B strings breaking more often. Later Rockingers also had saddle height adjustment directly on the saddle, as opposed to earlier models where you had to remove the saddle to adjust the height.

More pictures here

Site Updates: Additional photos

As part of maintaining this site, I occasionally go through and find typos, update missing or incomplete information, or find things I think could use new photos or details. I’m always learning new bits of historical or technical information and I try to add things like that too.

It’s a pretty time consuming task as it now constitutes a bit over 500 pages - enough to trigger a warning from my host about size - so it’s more of a “rolling” approach, where I update one page at a time with big gaps in between. Occasionally though, I make an effort to make some larger scale updates and today I wanted to mention that I’ve added additional photos for a large number of guitars. Check out the list below for updated photos:

And a few minor updates, mainly the main photos (top of the page, front/back profiles) were poor on these pages so I took new ones:

Here’s a quick example of the old vs new profile pictures. I’m not sure what I was thinking with the red blanket hanging back there… fixed now. The amps make for a much prettier backdrop.

Thanks for reading!

New Amp: 1999 Brunetti 059

Thanks to a friend of mine located in Europe, I was able to get my hands on one of these amps. Brunetti is fairly unknown here in the US but I’ve been lucky enough to play an XL and own a (still partially broken) XL-REVO II, and both of those have been fantastic amps.

The 059 is a more classic voiced amp, aimed a little more at vintage hard rock tones than the XL or XL REVO which are both fire breathing metal monsters out of the box (not that they can’t do great vintage tones too of course).

The panel looks a little complicated at first glance, but it makes sense once you are up close. The first three knobs on the left near the input are the gain controls - one for each channel, Clean, Crunch, and Solo. Then each channel has a 3-band EQ and a master volume control, and these are cluster together in this “stairstep then drop” pattern - bass, middle treble, then the one towards the bottom is the volume control right next to the push-button channel select switch. Each channel also has some addtional tone shaping options I’ll cover individually.

The clean channel is really fantastic for a high gainer, with a lot of lively character that makes it interesting to listen to - it’s not flat or sterile at all. The gain control has a bright switch attached which has a very strong impact on the tone especially with single coils and adds a lot of sparkle. It’s not a feature heavy channel, but the tone is superb.

The Crunch and Solo channels are similar looking, but they do have a clearly audible difference in their basic structure. The Solo channel is much looser and thicker by default, but not in a metal-amp saturated kind of way, which might put some players off. It’s really aimed more for your thicker, flowing, 70s era solo tones - I hear Highway Star solo tones in it.

The Crunch channel on the other hand has a much more defined low end for rhythm riffing, and still has plenty of gain on tap, but won’t satisfy for the most extreme metal styles without a boost. I do find this channel to be a bit anemic until the yellow “Shift” button is pressed, which adds a ton of low mid chunk to the sound. For my playing style, the Shift stays on all the time but I can see a use case with lower gain tones without it, or especially as a variation on a clean or “edge of breakup” type tone. Basically, you can get that type of sound with the gain turned up on the clean channel, or with the gain turned down on this channel - very nice.

Both channels have a “mellow” switch, and this cuts some of the high end and tapers it off more quickly. It interacts well with the presence control, and you can get some unique tones by arranging them opposite to each other (ex high presence but mellow on, or vice versa). And the last interesting feature is the “crunch/solo tone reverse” which simply swaps the tone stacks between the two channels. This lets you use the Solo channel’s higher gain but with the tone settings (and tighter low end) of the crunch channel. It’s not a perfect channel clone or anything, and it’s not intended to be, it’s just a nice feature for giving some versatility to either channel because you effectively have two different sets of EQ with different circuit values you can use for whatever you need.

Other features include an effects loop with send and return controls, a line out, and has many functions that are MIDI controllable. It also has the very cool feature of a 1U rack space underneath the chassis, something I’ve only seen from Brunetti and is a great home for my Yamaha SPX90.

I did have to rewire this to 120V, but the transformers still had the wires all ready to go and taped off. I sent a quick email to Marco Brunetti (who has been very responsive to my emails!) who confirmed I had the right wires, so it was an easy job.

Of course, this keeps fueling my need to acquire more Brunetti amps. There is a second edition of the 059 with some different features I’d love to compare with, and I’m also really wanting a Pirata 141. The Pirata 141 “valvemix” has a knob that allows the user to adjust the amount of two different power tubes in the circuit - by default a pair of 6L6 and a pair of EL34. This is similar to the Egnater Renegade (which I had, and sold) but I’m interested to hear Brunetti’s take on this idea, especially since the Pirata seems geared a little more towards high gain sounds than the Egnater was.

Either way, I’ll be keeping my eyes peeled for more of these great amps!

New Guitar: Kramer Stagemaster Transparent Blue

I’ll spare you all the usual “I should not be buying more guitars” talk here, even if it is true. I am at a point though where I’m starting to focus on only buying and keeping the really good ones - and any Stagemaster to me is one of those good ones. I spotted this one online at GC and missed it… it popped up again and I didn’t wait and bought it immediately. It was well priced but didn’t include the case, so I was very worried it would show up damaged or otherwise mistreated.

While awaiting delivery, a fellow Kramer collector posted about it on the kramerforumz, and he had returned it due to some shipping damage on the lower side of the body. I gave up hope at that point and figured I’d be taking it straight to return, but I was pleasantly surprised when it arrived - yes it has a sizable spot of damage through to the wood which is really regrettable, but this is still in excellent shape and at the price I decided I’d keep it.

The bridge humbucker has been replaced by a Dimarzio, I haven’t pulled it but there are only 3 possible options with this pole + bar arrangement: the D-Sonic, Crunch Lab, and now discontinued MegaDrive. I feel fairly certainly looking at the age and appearance that this is a MegaDrive, which I’ve actually had several of in the past and it is a great pickup. It has lower output but more mids than those more recent pickups… although I may end up swapping it and putting another Seymour Duncan in here just to make it all match up. We’ll see, I’m not in a rush.

It plays great, and has a very flat back of neck feel similar to my champagne colored Stagemaster (interestingly, my other 3 have much more rounded off necks). If the serial number decoder is correct, this guitar was very late, November of 1988, and the champagne one was July. All of the others are earlier in the year (April-June) so perhaps the neck shape was modified at a certain point, or maybe it’s just classic Kramer where the neck shape varied week to week depending on how they felt that day.

The finish is absolutely glorious of course - I love these transparent colors and the wood grain is especially cool on a neck-through instrument like this. All of my Stagemasters are firmly in my “keepers” list so I’m glad to have another.

More photos here

Introducing The Cabinets

Here at Totally Rad Guitars, we talk about Guitars (obviously) and more and more lately amplifiers. However there is an absolutely crucial, key component to any sound - the cabinets and speakers. In fact, as someone sitting in a room with 50+ amps, I’d argue a high quality cab and speakers are at least as important as the amp itself and maybe more so to some degree.

Now despite the huge collection here, I’m very frugal - I always buy used, sometimes damaged goods, and I’m not afraid of a repair. So I’m not saying “Go out and replace the speakers in your cab with some fancy brand new Celestions.” Just wanted to get that out of the way first thing. If you do a little research, there are some incredible cabs out there for amazing prices.

One other thing that is important to mention before we get started: I’m not as familiar with other makers, but Celestion Speakers have a LOT of variations even within the same model. For example, you might look at a speaker like the G12-65 and think there’s just the 4, 8, and 16 ohm variants. Well there’s more - construction differences, dust cap differences, material and glue differences, 55hz or 75hz cones, and more changed over the production run. I’m not an expert in this area but if you are very particular, be sure to find the T#### code and year of the speakers you like to help you find them again. It’s also why it is so difficult to discuss speakers online, because one person who played a 2017 T75 probably thinks it’s a scooped piece of crap while a 1987 T75 sounds like it’s from a different planet in comparison, but has the same model name.

Ok, this is going to be a long article so settle in. Let’s introduce the cabinets I’ve been using, starting with this 1986 Marshall JCM800 1960A 4x12:

Those of you who have watched my videos are probably familiar with this cabinet, and this is the first 4x12 I ever bought for myself so I’ve had it for a pretty long time. This was another Jimmy’s Vintage Music purchase, and it sports its original 1986 year Celestion G12T-75’s. Made in the UK, as all Celestions were at that time, these were originally based on the G12-65 which were used in JCM800 Lead cabinets from ~1981-1985. Very early T75’s have a small vent on the magnet, but the ones in my cabinet are slightly newer than that and lack the vent. Mine have the standard configuration of a 1777 cone, which is a 75Hz cone, and a 35oz “medium” magnet. Unlike a modern T75, these are relatively dark speakers, very thick in the mids and a bit rolled off on the high end. Some of that may be due to breaking in, but it’s true that the construction is a bit different than a modern one so it’s some of both.

As for the cab itself, it’s a birch plywood cabinet with a center support post. Interestingly, the back panel is MDF particle board, and the speakers are rear-loaded and configured to 16ohm Mono with a deep plastic “cup” jack just below the small metal serial number plate. Side handles are plastic and mounted with rivets. It came with casters but I always set my cabs on the floor as I feel that enhances their bass and resonance in the room. This cab is really the gold standard to compare other cabs to, both within my own collection and in the guitar world as a whole really - what is more iconic than a Marshall stack? It measures square at 29.5 inches width and height. It’s 14 inches deep at the base and 11 inches deep at the top.

I have temporarily rewired it so that each pair of speakers in an X pattern has its own jack, which lets me use two heads at once through the cab in 8ohm (easy for AB testing), and I can still use all four speakers with two speaker cables. This is the same as many other cabs, such as slightly later 1960A’s which have the stereo/mono panel on the back which started with JCM900 cabinets.

Next is a very similar cab, a 1992 Marshall 6960LE which is part of a matching set with the polished brass plated 6100LE head.

Marshall released these cabinets to pair alongside the 30th Anniversary edition amplifiers, the 6100. Models with the blue tolex and gold logo were only available in 1992 and in extremely limited number - 800 heads and 500 1x12 combo amps. I can’t find the precise production numbers for cabinets, but I think it’s safe to assume there are roughly 800 of these 6960ALE cabs as well, to match the heads, and a smaller number of non-slant 6960 “B” cabinets as a full stack was available too.

There are also non-limited edition models, signified with a more standard white plastic Marshall logo, and in the case of the head, lacks the polished brass plating. The cabinets in this series are simply called “6960A” and “6960B” without the “LE.” These kept the gold piping and blue tolex of the limited edition models.

Both the limited, standard, and even the JCM900 Lead 1960A/B cabinets all used the same quad of Celestion G12T-75 speakers, and are all built with the same construction materials and dimensions (the same as the above 80s cabinet). That’s a birch ply body with center post, rear loaded, but with an MDF back panel. The most notable departure from the 80s era Marshall cabinets is the speaker jack panel, which instead of a single jack in a plastic “cup,” is a larger black plastic panel with two jacks and a switch in between. This allows these cabinets to be used in “stereo” configuration - which is quite simply, plug into the left and you get the left two speakers, plug into the right and you get the right two speakers. The nice thing about the wiring of these cabinets is that you can use all four speakers in either 4 ohm or 16 ohm configurations, or a pair of speakers in 8 ohm - very nice when you have a lot of amps like me where not every amp has all of the options for impedance.

From a purely practical standpoint, it’s the same as any other Marshall standard cab. These early “black label” T75’s sound much like their earlier white label predecessors so the two cabs are roughly equivalent, which means I use the 80s one the majority of the time since it’s not a fancy limited edition.

This is a 1996 Fender Tone-Master 4x12, which was given to me by my father.

I am sadly missing the matching 90s Tone-Master head at the time of writing, but for now my blonde Super-Sonic 100 will have to do for the photo-op. This cabinet has a quad of 1996 year Celestion Vintage 30’s, which is an “H” magnet speaker (50oz) with a notable high-mid spike. Combined with the relatively smaller size of this cabinet (it measures 27 x 27.5 x 13 inches) it is a bit more cutting with less oomph in the low end than my other cabinets.

I actually inherited this from my dad, who bought it brand new at Portman’s Music in Savannah Georgia. Instead of the Tone-Master head, he picked out a matching blonde/oxblood Deluxe Reverb Reissue and used that for many years, with a Radioshack 33-3005 microphone and a Yamaha QY700 sequencer plugged in to the other inputs of that amp. Definitely not the traditional wisdom when it comes to these things, but I have a lot of fond memories of him playing and singing in the house with that setup.

When I went off to college, I had a Vox AD30VT but when I eventually moved out of the dorms, I wanted something a bit more serious and ended up with a Marshall TSL. My dad temporarily gifted me this cabinet (much to my downstairs neighbor’s disappointment), although I only had it for a short while before I downsized to the Egnater 1x12 (which I still have, more details below).

Jumping ahead many years, I eventually took this cabinet into my collection again, but this time in a house where I could actually play through it. My dad still has the Deluxe Reverb.

On to the 1998 Hughes and Kettner Triamp Cabinet.

This is my most recent cabinet acquisition, and one I’ve been hunting for a while now. It really started with this idea that I was going to flesh out my youtube channel with more comparison videos - between amps, speakers, pickups, pedals, and so on. I realized that I have a lot of T75’s and V30’s, which is great, but especially with my preference for 80s metal tones I really felt like I was missing out by not having some kind of greenback, blackback, or other late 70s/early 80s type speaker. During this time, I picked up a few orphaned singles and pairs of speakers, but after doing some research and discovering that these cabinets came with UK Greenbacks stock, I figured this was my best chance at a bang-for-the-buck cabinet that fit my requirements - even if that meant trashing the wooden box itself. Keep in mind, a quad of 90s UK Greenbacks regularly cost upwards of $600, yet this entire cab only cost me $400… can’t beat that, even if maybe I would’ve picked something else if money were no concern.

The speakers are as expected - excellent, superb even. Maybe the most particular people might prefer real 60s/70s era G12M’s, or maybe modern Scumbacks, but for the cost I really don’t think this can be beaten. The cabinet itself is very conflicting to me - it is entirely constructed of MDF, and as such weighs an absolute ton. It is front loaded, which doesn’t bother me really but it is a bit strange for a cab loaded with such a “traditional” speaker. It has extremely high quality metal handles, recessed from the sides, and glued with soft foam seal around them which is a really nice detail and adds a lot of confidence to moving it around despite the weight. The rear panel has two jacks, which allow each pair of speakers to be used separately at 4 ohms, or all 4 speakers used together at 8 ohms if only the leftmost jack is used. It measures barely smaller than a standard Marshall cab, at 29 x 29 inches tall and wide, 14 inches deep at the base but only 10.5 inches deep at the top.

Next up, a 2003 Mesa Rectifier Traditional cabinet.

This was the second cabinet I purchased for myself to pair with my Marshall JCM800 1960A and give me some more options. This Mesa “traditional” sized rectifier cabinet is extremely high quality, built from birch ply all around with metal handles. It’s about 3 inches shorter in height than the “standard” rectifier cabinet, which most people call “oversized” for comparison’s sake to other manufacturers. The traditional cab however, is essentially the same size as your gold standard Marshall cabinet. It measures 29.5 x 29.5 inches tall and wide, with the base at 14 inches deep and the top around 11 inches deep. I’ll admit, I would’ve preferred to have the oversized cab just for flavor’s sake, but that doesn’t make this any less of a great cab - if I could only have one, this would be it construction-wise. Since I have… 3 other similarly sized cabs though, it’d be nice to have something a little different.

It comes equipped with a quad of 8 ohm Celestion Vintage 30’s, UK made and dating to the year 2003. I’m certainly not as familiar as some when it comes to all of the details of Vintage 30’s, but from what I understand 2003 is considered to be one of the “good years.” Regardless of online opinion, I can say that this is a fantastic sounding cab and the speakers are a huge part of that. At some point, I’ll have to put a pair of the ‘96 V30’s from my Fender into this and compare to see whether I like those or the ‘03 variants more.

Otherwise, there isn’t much more to say - it’s a workhorse, and my second most used cab just behind my JCM800 1960A.

Lastly, I have a 2012 Egnater Tweaker 1x12.

I picked this up used back in 2012 to downsize my apartment rig. This is a partial open-back cab with a removable rear grille, and is completely birch-ply construction. It’s not a true “convertible” cab as some modern ones are, but it’s also very easy to convert to open back or closed back - a few screws and the two small rear panels pop right off for open back, and I used a piece of wood cut to the shape of the grille area with mounting tape that I can simply slot into the rear for a closed back feel (ok, maybe there’s a tiny gap in between the wood panels). Either way, this is a very nice cabinet especially for the price I paid at the time which was basically just the cost of the speaker - a Chinese made Celestion G12H-30 Anniversary. More recent Tweaker 1x12 cabs no longer come with this speaker and instead are equipped with a G12H-50 which is an OEM model produced for Egnater (and likely other manufacturers too). It measures 20 x 14.5 x 10.5 inches.

This is my favorite “test bed” cabinet because it is so easy to quickly swap out speakers, it sounds good with just about anything in it, and since I’ve accumulated quite a few singles it gives me something to use them in. Currently, I have this loaded with a 1982 Celestion G12-80 with the 55Hz 444 cone, and that is by far my favorite single speaker I’ve tried so far. Perhaps the 55Hz cones might have too much low end in a 4x12 setting, but it really rips here and I’d love to get my hands on another if the right deal comes up.

Otherwise, here are the loose speakers I currently have. I also had a (not pictured) Marshall 1931 1x12 cab which I sold rather quickly, and a really unique 1970s Kasino cab (made by Kustom) which I bought super cheap and pulled out the speakers - someone had loaded it with a pair of T75’s and a pair of M70’s which you can see pictured below.

Alright, if you made it, thanks for sticking around! Next time it won’t be so long, since I’ll be updating as I get new speakers and cabs now. Now to get to work on those comparisons…

New Amp: Diezel VH2

I’ve been watching this amp sit at a local shop for a while - one I’ve talked about before, and funnily enough, the same place I got my Diezel Einstein last year: Jimmy’s Vintage Music. If you are ever in the Tampa or Central Florida areas, I’d HIGHLY encourage you to go check out this shop. It’s run by one guy - Jimmy of course - and he maintains one of the best high end vintage guitar stores I’ve ever seen. I feel lucky to live close enough that I can make it out there occasionally, and now that he updates the site pretty often with new gear, it’s really convenient (I remember when he used to list occasional things on craigslist but you never really knew what he had in stock back then!).

Anyway, he’s had this VH2 for a little while. It’s an amp on my list, but I always figured I’d eventually get my hands on a VH4 someday so it was never a huge priority, especially for the prices I was seeing them for elsewhere online. After seeing the price drop on this one locally though, I had to jump on it, so I drove down there last week with a pair of Ibanezes as potential trades. I ended up keeping the guitars… no problem there, and I suspect Jimmy’s clientele are more into the classic Fender/Gibson type stuff. I have to mention that Jimmy is a really great guy to deal with - he was honest about what he could and couldn’t take in trade based on his regulars, and still gave me a really fair price on the amp to buy it outright. Let me put it this way, I’ve been there many times, and I’ve always left very happy.

No surprise, the amp is in pristine shape - original footswitch included. These have only been out for a few years, and this one is quite recent by my standards as a 2021 model. This is a two channel amp designed for a little more mass appeal, sort of your entry point into the Diezel sound for the low low price of $3000 brand new. A quick overview of the model lineup at the time of writing: The VH2 is the least expensive model in the lineup of “full size” heads, alongside the Hagen, Herbert, and VH4, all of which are $4000+. There is also a line of smaller form factor heads - but unlike other manufacturers, the smaller heads are still beasts, with the VHX and D-Moll sporting 100w power sections. The other “small” heads are the 45w Paul and BigMax (with the BigMax being the least expensive in that form factor at $2500 with only a single channel).

In short, if you want to get into the Diezel sound, the VH2 is the go-to amp for a lot of people just based on price and features alone. The VH2’s Channel 1 is based on the Paul’s clean channel, which is well regarded for a high gain amp. The real highlight though, and I suspect the main reason most are interested in this amp, the VH2’s Channel 2 is supposedly the same as the VH4’s famous Channel 3.

I’m not as familiar with the buzz around this myself - I’ve listened to some Tool, like a few tracks, but it’s not the tone I dream about late at night (that’s not to say it isn’t good of course). I also know Smashing Pumpkins and Billy Corgan are big users of the VH4 in general, channel 3 included. I wouldn’t dare call it “overhyped,” but there is definitely a subset of guitarists who are a bit fanatical in their appreciation of the VH4 Channel 3’s sound and whoever uses it.

Okay, hype aside how does it sound? Well, I haven’t played a VH4 yet so I really can’t compare to that yet. I will say it’s a chunky sounding amp, but much brighter than the Herbert Mk1 when I A/B tested them. It also has far less gain than I expected, and a little less low-mid gut punch. I think I had in my mind it was going to be a heavy metal amp, and it can be, but it’s certainly less saturated than the Herbert for example, and it doesn’t get as gainy as my Einstein either. Of course, boosting with a tubescreamer sounds great, a la single channel JCM800, but this is no Marshall clone by any stretch. It’s hard to say really, because I need to spend a little more time with it to really feel out what it can do. It didn’t blow my socks off immediately like I felt the first time I played a Herbert, but I think a lot of that is just my approach to a new amp, where I crank the gain and rip out some heavy riffs. That’s not to say it isn’t an excellent amp for heavier tones, I think I just need to coax it a little bit more and admittedly I’ve been busy, so I’m only a few hours into spending time with it as I write this. It does get a little undefined with the gain too high, so that’s kind of limiting - in order to keep some clarity, I have the gain at about 1-2 O’clock, but that’s not enough saturation for my liking.

As for the clean channel, it’s an acceptable clean channel but it definitely doesn’t wow me. It’s very flat, and probably great for effects or with an EQ to shape your sound to what you want, but on its own it’s a bit plain. It does sound really good with the gain cranked up as a pseudo-crunch channel though, with very natural feel to the overdrive.

Construction, fit and finish, and quality are all absolutely top tier and it shows. The preamp tubes are PCB mounted but that never bothered me, but I know some feel differently especially in this price range. It has absolutely massive transformers, and my understanding is that these are the same ones as the full size VH4. Of course, it still has me thinking about the VH4 and wondering what I can get out of that amp’s Ch2 and Ch4… I guess that’s the point.

More pictures here

New Guitar: 1990 Kramer Proaxe Special in Pearly White

There have been a lot of really appealing guitars posted for sale lately, maybe everyone else like me who accumulated a lot of nice gear during COVID is finally letting go… or maybe this is another “found it in the closet” situation. I came close to pickup up a few but I really need to tighten my belt right now. Either way, someone traded this gorgeous pearl white Proaxe Special into GC and I jumped on it. I probably overpaid a little bit for this one, but this is a pretty exciting one - I’ve always got Proaxe money.

Proaxes were Kramer’s final hurrah just before bankruptcy and are very unique guitars. It’s really a shame they didn’t hold out for another year or two because I really believe these are some of the finest bolt-on neck guitars ever made. It may look like a more standard late 80s Kramer Pacer Imperial, but there are quite a few differences. This is the “Special” model, which has a more standard H-H pickup layout. There is also the “Standard” which is H-S and the “Deluxe” which is H-S-S. The vast majority of these were made in either solid black or black sparkle, which makes any color including this pearl white fairly rare.

The most obvious key difference is that neck - an ebony fretboard, 24 3/4” scale, and an extremely thin R1 nut width. There’s really nothing else like it, aside Nightswans maybe. It’s really a shame that before this guitar, and since, no one has made a really nice thin neck shredder quite like this - yeah I love my Ibanezes, Charvels, and more but they don’t quite have this feel. This particular example has a reversed headstock, just like the catalogs. I have another Proaxe with a non reversed neck so it’s cool to have both. this neck also has an absolutely stunning flame to it which looks amazing in the right light.

Moving on to the body, it’s equipped with a unique bridge as well - the recently discontinued Floyd Rose Pro. This was also the first guitar to have a Floyd Pro, and it’s a truly superb bridge. Adding to firsts, this is also the first guitar to have the Seymour Duncan Parallel Axis humbucker, which at the time of release was simply called “Trembucker,” which is also stamped on the bottom plate of the pickup. I absolutely adore these pickups, and I’ve had all 3 models now (this is equivalent to the original PATB-1, but there is also a PATB-2 and PATB-3 now). There’s something about it that just feels slinky, easy to play, but there’s still a lot of mids and punch so it’s not a scooped pickup either. The body is also unique, both because of its unique contours and shaping as it evolved from the 7/8 soloist body shape, but also its mahogany construction.

It lacks the 3 knob and mini-toggle of its Pacer Imperial predecessor, in trade for a larger standard 3-way switch and a simple volume & tone control layout. I do like those 3-knob Pacers, especially early ones that were configured as two vol one tone, but there’s certainly something to be said for simplicity and easy of use here.

Overall, this is one of the best playing guitars in my entire collection and come to think of it, I’ve never had a Proaxe that wasn’t incredible. I think that holds true for a lot of players, because they only made a few hundred of these at most and almost every one I’ve seen has its share of battle scars and playing marks. I really think almost every Proaxe has been played quite a bit, compared to other models where you occasionally find a pristine example, that’s much harder to find here. That doesn’t stop me from loving these though, and I’m so glad to have a pair of them. Now all I have to do is find one of the 5? 10? maple fretboard Proaxes out there.

One side note, if you have one of these and ever ship it, for goodness sakes, do not allow it to slide around inside the case. These headstocks are extremely fragile, moreso than earlier Kramers it seems, and it really pains me to see such a special neck that will never be produced again destroyed. Remember, it doesn’t matter how much padding you place around the headstock, if the headstock can touch the inside of the case when the body slides around, it’s as good as broken. Think of it like protecting an endangered species!

More pictures here